Coffee House Pant from Blue Dot Patterns

January 8, 2018November 4, 2018 ~ mahlicadesigns ~ 6 Comments

Diane from Blue Dot Patterns has created another pattern with a modern look that has become a closet staple for me. The Coffee House Pant is a loose fitting cropped pant with an elastic waist and “notched” pocket detail.

Being on the short side (almost 5’4″) I just stear clear of cropped pants and capris. I just can’t seem to find that magic length that looks right. So when I saw Diane’s new pattern was a cropped pant, I was happy to make up a pair as a tester, but didn’t imagine I’d end up with something that would actually work for me.

But looky here:

One of the chararteristics that appeals to me is that while these are so very comfortable to wear, they look neat and classic.

The Pattern: Coffee House Pant from Blue Dot Patterns in size 8 with no alterations.

The Coffee House Pant is on sale until Jan 14th to celebrate it’s release.

As with all the other Blue Dot patterns that I’ve made, the pattern is well drafted and the instructions professional and easy to follow. I think you would be happy with any of her patterns.

The Fabric: A natural woven that my mother picked up from an estate sale. The original sale tag was dated 1954. It drapes wonderfully and doesn’t wrinkle all that much.

As always, thanks for reading today.

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Georgia Top and Alyse Slim Pant featuring Simply By Ti Fabrics

December 6, 2017November 4, 2018 ~ mahlicadesigns ~ 6 Comments

Ladies and gents, today I get to share my first project as a Simply By Ti Ambassador.

You may be pleasantly surprised to see me wearing color and a bold print. I love my cold weather color pallet of all greys, but when I can’t tell one garment from the other in my drawer, it’s time to add in some color.

A few months back I made a pair of the Alyse Tapered Leg pants from Designer Stitch* (unblogged) but they were a tad loose and I didn’t love the silhouette on me. I thought the Slim Leg version might suit me better and wanted to try again. I chose the stretch twill in burgundy from Simply by Ti for this go around. The color is so rich I knew it would make a great wardrobe piece.

For my second pair of Alyse pants I pinched out a little from the center front rise but it looks like I need to do a little more work to eliminate some wiskering. Even though I sewed the same size as before, the slims are a bit snug around my curves, but I’m going to roll with it.

To top off my Alyse Slims, I returned to my TNT Georgia Top from Blue Dot Patterns in a chevron stripe cotton/lycra. I don’t do large prints, so I was worried about if this would overwhelm my frame. I really like how it turned out. The stripe is bold but not overwhelming, makes interesting shapes along the Georgia’s shoulder seam, and gives me a dramatic look.

The outfit is just what I was hoping for.

The Patterns: Alyse Slim Fit Pant from Designer Stitch* in size 4. A 1/2in adjustment to the length of the front rise was done. The Georgia Top from Blue Dot Patterns in size small. 2in added to the length of the arms.

The Fabric Stretch twill in burgandy has great stretch and recovery. It’s just perfect for bottoms and jackets. Chevron stripe cotton/lycra jersey has a great wieght to it to minimize curling and clinging.

As always, thanks for reading today.

You can follow me on instagram, Bloglovin, or by entering your email in the right side bar.

As a Simply by Ti Ambassador I receive complementary fabric from the Simply By Ti shop to use for a project in exchange for sharing it with you.

*This post may contain affiliate links, if you purchase through my links I get a small portion to help pay for my sewing hobby.

Sew Long Summer blog tour 2017

September 7, 2017September 7, 2017 ~ mahlicadesigns ~ 1 Comment

Yay! Sew Long Summer is back and starts next Monday.

This year I have about 20 bloggers joining me to share how we say “Sew Long” to summer. Here’s the line up:

Sept. 11th Sewing by Ti, Sewing Vortex, Sewing A La Carte, Very Blissful

Sept. 12th mahlicadesigns, My Heart Will So On, Couturious, Anne-Mari Sews, Adventures With Bubba and Bug

Sept. 13th Tenilles Thread, Tales From A Southern Mom, Sew Haute Blog, Sewing with D

Sept. 14th Indulging Mom, MeMade, Anne-Mari Sews, mahlicadesigns

Sept. 15th Little Heart Threads, Idlesunshine, Ronda B. Handmade, Tales of a Tester, Sewing à la Carte

Stay tuned for the fun.

Want to show off how you say “Sew Long Summer”? Use #sewlongsummer17 on Instagram and facebook.

Ally Skirt and Onyx Shirt for the Knock It Off tour

April 25, 2017November 17, 2018 ~ mahlicadesigns ~ 20 Comments

Today I’m sharing an outfit I made for the Knock It Off blog tour hosted by Lulu & Celeste and Sprouting Jube Jube. The mission: Knock Off a look from a designer or rtw.

The challenging part of the tour parameters was finding my inspiration. I hadn’t followed designers or Ready To Wear (rtw) companies at all, but this was the perfect push to broaden my view.

Since I didn’t even know where to start, I had to work backwards. I knew I wanted to make a red skirt for summer, so I started looking at companies I’d heard people talking about- Anthropologie, Mod Cloth, and Urban Outfitters. I searched for red skirts and pinned the outfits I liked. Success! I found this outfit on Anthropologie that I wanted.

Putting together the Knock Off was super easy from my pattern stash. The Ally Skirt and Onyx Shirt had the right silhouettes and I quickly hashed a plan to hack the Ally to get the look.

I made the Onyx in a size 4 using a cotton woven (an IKEA sheet from their clearance bin). Simple enough since I’ve made the Onyx before (here).

For the Ally I made a size small again (first Ally here) using a cotton sateen from Joann Fabrics, drafted an angled pocket, added 1.5in in height to the waistband, and added a zip fly and clasp closure.

I’m very pleased with how my outfit came out. It harkens to the inspiration photo and it’s my style and color scheme. I’m gettting better and better at hacking the patterns I own to get a look I want. It’s a learning process and of course there are goof ups like this one:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/51456715@N04/33327095324/in/dateposted-public/

I forgot to extend the waistband to account for the zipper fly extension. Whoopsie. I made it work by tappering it a bit.

I was a little short on fabric after drafting my hacks, so I was able to stashbust a little more of my quilting cotton stash for the waistband facing and fly shield.

I’m really happy with my outfit and that I can make myself a look instead of shelling out the $150 it would have taken for the Anthropologie version. Yikes!

My cost: Total: $13 Fabrics $9 Notions $4 Patterns: $0 Stash

If you’d like me to write up a tutorial on my Ally Skirt hack, let me know in the comments.

Now I’d like you to pay a visit the my fellow bloggers to see how they Knock It Off

Monday, April 24 Lulu & Celeste – Call Ajaire – Paisley Roots – Adventures with Bubba and Bug

Tuesday, April 25 Sprouting JubeJube – mahlicadesigns – Sew and Tell Project

Wednesday, April 26 Lulu & Celeste – SewSophieLynn – Nini and Ash – Little Heart Threads

Thursday, April 27 Sprouting JubeJube – sewingbyti – Inspinration – House of Estrela

Friday, April 28 Lulu & Celeste – Duchess & Hare – Creative Counselor – FAM

As always, thanks for reading today.

You can follow me on instagram, Bloglovin, or by entering your email in the right side bar.

Melissa VS Julia: Pattern Showdown for Cardigan Roundup

September 29, 2016March 11, 2017 ~ mahlicadesigns ~ 13 Comments

Today I’m joining Sewing with Ti in her Cardigan Round Up to talk about my favorite cardigan pattern. I thought I’d share about my favorite by doing a pattern comparison, So…

Welcome back to VS.

A theme here at mahlicadesigns with the aim of pairing similar style patterns against each other in a friendly showdown to see which pattern better suits me, all while working through my pattern stash.

Melissa Cardigan from Zierstoff Patterns

Julia Cardigan from Mouse House Creations

The Melissa Cardigan features a pieced dolman sleeve, fully faced rounded collar, and roomy fit.

The Julia offers cap, 3/4, and full length set in sleeves, options for fully faced or one piece rounded collar, and casual fit.

Let’s compare.

Instructions.

Melissa: Size chart is on website, but not in the instructions. Print/scale checks are throughout the pattern so you can always be sure the pattern printed correctly. The size lines are in color, so if printing in black & white it can be tough when the lines are tight together. The instructions for garment construction are clear and easy to follow.

Julia: Instructions for construction are clear and easy to follow. The pattern has a few pattern markings to help line up pieces and are useful for stripe/pattern matching.

Fit.

Melissa: Great overall fit. I shortened the sleeves 3in, a typical adjustment for me.

Julia: Runs small. I made one size up and ended up with the right fit. It feels tight to me at the back neck, I think the back neckline needs to be scooped out a little. Not a fan of how the fabric puddles at my hip.

Style.

Melissa: The loose fit open front cardigan style is very on trend, but dolman sleeves are not for everyone.

Julia: The open front cardigan style is very on trend. Long and short sleeve options are included.

Investment.

Melissa: Time; 2.5 hours Cost; Fabrics $10 Pattern $6 About 2yd @ 60in wide

Julia: Time; 2.75 hours Cost; Fabrics $5.50 Pattern $6.95* About 2.5yd @ 60in wide

Opportunities.

Melissa: Colorblocking of collar and sleeves. Variety of fabrics can be used.

Julia: Colorblocking of collar and sleeve length options. Need fabrics with stretch.

For me, the Melissa is the winner. The Melissa is an overall better fitting pattern, has my favorite sleeve style, a better fitting collar, and longer length.

*$6.95 was my price through Up Craft Club for the Julia Cardigan. I received the Melissa pattern for free from Zierstoff Patterns.

Sew Long Summer inspiration from our sponsors

September 16, 2016March 11, 2017 ~ mahlicadesigns ~ 3 Comments

I’m very thankful to On the Cutting Floor, Blue Dot Patterns, and Zierstoff Patterns for partnering with me to make Sew Long Summer extra fun for you.

On the Cutting Floor is going to give away a pattern of choice to one lucky winner.

The giveaway ends soon so click through here to enter: GIVEAWAY

I already have the Santiago Jacket and the Megan Blouse on my fall sewing list.

How great would the Adeline Dress in denim or the long sleeve Sarah Dress in a double knit be for fall?

Use Code: SEWLONG for 50% off patterns from On the Cutting Floor (Ends 9/17/16)

From Blue Dot Patterns I’m wanting another Ally Skirt in red. I love cotton sateen, but a fine corduroy would be cool weather appropriate.

May I suggest the Georgia Top in a cuddly french terry or following Diane’s tutorial for hacking her Dover Jacket into a car coat length.

Use Code: SewLongSummer for 25% off patterns from Blue Dot Patterns (Ends 9/17/16)

I’ve already used the discount to buy the SVEA pants from Zierstoff Patterns, but keep finding more that I want to make on every visit to their site.

The ALIZIA is speaking my colorblocking language and the KAREN has a great fit and cowl to keep you warm.

Use Code: zierstoffpatterns20 for 20% off patterns at Zierstoff Patterns (Ends 9/17/16)

There’s just a few more hours to take advantage of these discounts, so get going.

Thank you so very much for reading along with the Sew Long Summer tour and leaving comments for the participating bloggers.

**I have an affiliate relationship with On the Cutting Floor, meaning if you make a purchase through my links to her site, I’ll receive a small portion of the sale.

Sew Long Summer is back!

September 9, 2016March 11, 2017 ~ mahlicadesigns ~ 4 Comments

Yay! Sew Long Summer is back and starts next Monday.

This year I have over 25 bloggers joining me to share how we say “Sew Long” to summer. Here’s the line up:

Sept. 12th Sewing by Ti, Cindy Parrett, Sewing Vortex, Renata Laura, Couturious, Nina Makes

Sept. 13th mahlicadesigns, Musings of a Seamstress, Rainy Day Sewing, Sprouting Jube Jube, Sewing A La Carte, Anne-Mari Sews

Sept. 14th AppleGreen Cottage, mahlicadesigns, Kaleidothought, PrettiModesti, Olive Ashby, Sewing Bee Fabrics

Sept. 15th Lulu & Celeste, Diane Cullum of Two Chicklets, Adventures With Bubba and Bug, Wining Wife, The Pumpkin Room, Sewing A La Carte, Anne-Mari sews

Sept. 16th Sewing by Ti, Musings of a Seamstress, Tales of a Tester, Almost a hippy, At Margareta’s Haus, Sewing A La Carte, Birds Of A Kettle

We’re also joined by Blue Dot Patterns, Zierstoff Patterns, and On the Cutting Floor who will be offering our readers discounts during the tour.

Want to show off how you say “Sew Long Summer”? Use #sewlongsummer16 on Instagram and facebook and I’ll feature you in a wrap up post at the end of the blog tour.

A Margo Mod for Pattern Hack week on The Monthly Stitch

June 20, 2016June 17, 2016 ~ mahlicadesigns ~ 11 Comments

Since seeing this cute top on pinterest, I’ve had it on my sewing list to make one for myself. The Margo Blouse quickly came to mind as a pattern I could use as a jumping off point.

I’m calling this one a success! With just a few minor missteps working with these fabrics, I found the fruition of my idea came along pretty easily.

The Pattern: The Margo Blouse from Blue Dot Patterns. I used the straight hem version with the 3/4 length sleeve in a size small. After making my modifications to the yokes, I followed the pattern directions for an easy finish.

The Fabric: 1/2y of rayon/spandex jersey and 1/2y black mesh. I also used 3/8in elastic in the sleeve hems as directed and 5/8in FOE at the neckline.

The Mods:

1. I added my own button plackets, made from the jersey knit, to the back by cutting the back yoke in half at center back and adding a 1in x 4.25in finished placket piece to each edge. I overlapped the plackets, basted along the bottom and then attached the yoke to the bodice as normal.

2. I raised the neckline at center front by 2.5in and smoothed out the curve.

3. I used FOE to finish my neckline (the pattern has yoke facings as a finish) and French seams at the shoulder and sleeve seams.

Next time I would raise the seamline across the front about 3/4in, it just looks a little low to me with the shear fabric. I would also only raise the neckline at center front by 2in instead of 2.5in, it feels a little high.

Making a modified Margo should take you about 4.75 hours or less.

Total Cost: $11.50 Fabrics: $10 Notions $1.50 Pattern $0*

I’m submitting my Margo hack into The Monthly Stitch’s contest for Indie Pattern Month. Take a look at what other sewists are doing and return to The Monthly Stitch on June 24th to vote for your favorite pattern hacks.

*I received a free copy of the Margo Blouse Pattern for hosting the Creative Sewing Challenge.

Ally Skirt from Blue Dot Patterns

June 1, 2016June 12, 2016 ~ mahlicadesigns ~ 9 Comments

Frankly, I was very happy to let the current “denim everything” trend pass on by me. If I followed the trend back in middle school, I just don’t want anything to do with it.

And yet once again, my mind was changed by a pattern. The Ally Skirt is a six gore skirt with contoured waistband, length options, flap, pocket option, and top stitching.

Two ideas struck immediately when looking at the Ally; denim with copper snaps and yellow top stitching or corduroy in a camel/caramel color for that 70s feel. So very on trend right now. The new Ally Skirt just called out to be made up in denim.

I tested the Ally Skirt pattern for Blue Dot Patterns. Blue Dot Patterns may sound familiar. I’ve made up two Georgia‘s (here and here), hosted the Creative Sewing Challenge last fall, and one of my ideas for the Margo Blouse is on my sewing table now.

I used a lightweight 7 oz. denim from my stash to make up my Ally in a size medium. With some pattern piece Tetris and using an extremely tight lay out, I was able to get my skirt cut out of 5/8 yard x 60in wide. If you have a directional print, fabric with nap, or narrower fabric; you’ll need more.

Why I recommend the pattern: 1. Oh my is it so easy. All the pieces could get confusing, but the way they’re labeled and notched makes it no problem. 2. Diane, the pattern designer, even includes fitting as part of the pattern directions. Instead of a 1/2in seam allowance at the sides, I used a 5/8in seam allowance: Fitting Done! 3. A contoured waist band. I’m a pear shape so that’s perfect for me. 4. The style is classic and very on trend right now too.

Get yours! Get your Ally pattern for 30% off, for a limited time, directly from Blue Dot Patterns or from UpCraft Club.

I chose snaps that were bigger than the recommended button size, so I skipped the top stitching at the outer edge of the button placket.

Hey, I’m pretty proud of my top stitching here.

That pocket flap is purely decor. I don’t need pockets in everything, so I’m cool with it. If you are in the pockets on everything camp there’s a pocket option for you.

I styled the Ally skirt with a cowl neck tee; with my banded Kirsten Kimono tee and RTW jacket; and a RTW sweater.

The Ally should take you about 3.75 hours to complete. In a size medium with creative layout I used 5/8 yard of fabric.

Total cost: $6.50 Fabric: $3 Notions: $3.50 Pattern: $0*

*I received the Ally Pattern for free as a tester. Do I have to explain that these are my own thoughts about the pattern? They are.

Georgia On My Mind. I hacked the Georgia Top again

March 15, 2016March 17, 2016 ~ mahlicadesigns ~ 8 Comments

I made my first Georgia Top for the Creative Sewing Challenge back in November and when putting together a post to inspire creativity with the Georgia pattern, I just had to put another version on my “to sew” list.

I used the Georgia Top from Blue Dot Patterns in a size small again and modified the pattern by adding length to the sleeves and making a new cutting line for the lace piecing (tutorial below).

I used a stable jersey knit from my stash paired with a lace purchased from Fabric Mart. I’ve not sewn with lace before, but since the lace I chose is not as fine and sheer as some lace can be, I just treated it like a knit and constructed the whole project with my serger. No problems.

I’m just as pleased with my second Georgia, but have to laugh at myself for making two versions that have built in ventilation.

Get my look (tutorial):

Let’s draw a new pattern line on the front pattern piece. I marked my outside shoulder at 4.25in from the neckline. I made a bust mark 4in down from CF neckline and 5in over (next time I’d make it 6in over to cover more of my chest). I marked the side 4in up from the bottom. I used a French curve to draw my new cutting line; keeping the line through most of the body vertical with a slight curve up to the shoulder and a dramatic curve at the waistline.

**I had the benefit of having a Georgia already made that I could use to determine the placement of my markings.

Cut along your new pattern line. Take a moment to label your new piece. Use your new front piece to trace your line onto the unmodified back piece. Cut your new pattern line on the back and label.

I added 7.5in to the sleeve to make it long sleeve on me ( I’dd add more next time). I recommend you do some measuring to figure what will work for you.

Tips:

Label your new pattern pieces.
Add seam allowance to your new cut lines: I marked the cutting line on my fabric with chalk; you can trace off new pattern pieces if you want.
Make sure you’re ok with the amount of exposure the lace will give. I plan on wearing a cami.

A modified Georgia top should take you 2 hours to complete. Add about 20 minutes to draw new pattern lines.

Fabric $3 Pattern $0* Total Cost $3

I received the Georgia Top Pattern free as a gift for hosting the Creative Sewing Challenge

Aurora VS Georgia: Pattern Showdown Series

January 26, 2016January 22, 2016 ~ mahlicadesigns ~ 3 Comments

Welcome to VS.

A series here at mahlicadesigns with the aim of pairing similar styles against each other in a friendly showdown to see which pattern better suits me, all while working through my pattern stash. (Overview here)

Today we have two dolman tops.

Aurora Tee from Hey June Patterns

Georgia Top from Blue Dot Patterns

The Aurora Tee features a pieced dolman sleeve, slouchy body, and inserts option. I was drawn to the extra room at the upper arm that a dolman provides and the skinny lower sleeve. I fell between small and medium on the size chart, so considering the slouchy fit and 3in of pattern ease, I chose the small. I’ve never done facings on a knit item and frankly don’t see why I would on this one. I substituted the neckline facings for a neckband instead. I think the fit is spot on for the chest and arms. I’m a big fan of skinny sleeves and these are a perfect fit and length for me. I shortened the bodice just above the inserts by 2in and the top is still plenty long. Shortening it this much shifted up the point where the top starts to flare out though and I think it makes it wider around the waist than I like. If you need to shorten yours and to be a TNT for me, consider reshaping the side seams.

The Georgia is a loose fitting dolman with 3/4 length sleeves and options for colorblocking, banded sleeves and waist, and fabric choices. The small was a perfect fit. I really like how the slouchy look of the top is balanced by the banded waist line. I made my Georgia as part of The Creative Sewing Challenge, so a little extra time was spent being creative with the sleeves. To be a TNT pattern for me, I just need to tweak the sleeves a little bit. Making them a couple inches longer and snugging up the cuff will keep them from riding up above my elbows or shortening them a couple inches so they hit right above the elbow.