Ally Skirt and Onyx Shirt for the Knock It Off tour

Today I’m sharing an outfit I made for the Knock It Off blog tour hosted by Lulu & Celeste and Sprouting Jube Jube. The mission: Knock Off a look from a designer or rtw.

Knock it off banner 3

Ally 4

The challenging part of the tour parameters was finding my inspiration. I hadn’t followed designers or Ready To Wear (rtw) companies at all, but this was the perfect push to broaden my view.

Ally 8

Since I didn’t even know where to start, I had to work backwards. I knew I wanted to make a red skirt for summer, so I started looking at companies I’d heard people talking about- Anthropologie, Mod Cloth, and Urban Outfitters. I searched for red skirts and pinned the outfits I liked. Success! I found this outfit on Anthropologie that I wanted.

Photo from Anthropologie

 

Ally 6

Putting together the Knock Off was super easy from my pattern stash. The Ally Skirt and Onyx Shirt had the right silhouettes and I quickly hashed a plan to hack the Ally to get the look.

Ally 2

I made the Onyx in a size 4 using a cotton woven (an IKEA sheet from their clearance bin). Simple enough since I’ve made the Onyx before (here).

For the Ally I made a size small again (first Ally here) using a cotton sateen from Joann Fabrics, drafted an angled pocket, added 1.5in in height to the waistband, and added a zip fly and clasp closure.

Ally closeup

I’m very pleased with how my outfit came out. It harkens to the inspiration photo and it’s my style and color scheme. I’m gettting better and better at hacking the patterns I own to get a look I want. It’s a learning process and of course there are goof ups like this one:

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I forgot to extend the waistband to account for the zipper fly extension. Whoopsie. I made it work by tappering it a bit.

I was a little short on fabric after drafting my hacks, so I was able to stashbust a little more of my quilting cotton stash for the waistband facing and fly shield.

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I’m really happy with my outfit and that I can make myself a look instead of shelling out the $150 it would have taken for the Anthropologie version. Yikes!

My cost: Total: $13   Fabrics $9    Notions $4  Patterns: $0 Stash

If you’d like me to write up a tutorial on my Ally Skirt hack, let me know in the comments.

 

Now I’d like you to pay a visit the my fellow bloggers to see how they Knock It Off 

Monday, April 24  Lulu & CelesteCall AjairePaisley RootsAdventures with Bubba and Bug

Tuesday, April 25  Sprouting JubeJube mahlicadesignsSew and Tell Project

Wednesday, April 26  Lulu & CelesteSewSophieLynnNini and AshLittle Heart Threads

Thursday, April 27  Sprouting JubeJubesewingbytiInspinrationHouse of Estrela

Friday, April 28  Lulu & CelesteDuchess & HareCreative CounselorFAM

As always, thanks for reading today.

You can follow me on instagram, Bloglovin, or by entering your email in the right side bar.

Melissa VS Julia: Pattern Showdown for Cardigan Roundup

Today I’m joining Sewing with Ti in her Cardigan Round Up to talk about my favorite cardigan pattern. I thought I’d share about my favorite by doing a pattern comparison, So…

Welcome back to VS.

A theme here at mahlicadesigns with the aim of pairing similar style patterns against each other in a friendly showdown to see which pattern better suits me, all while working through my pattern stash.

Melissa Cardigan from Zierstoff Patterns

Melissa v Julia main collage

 Julia Cardigan from Mouse House Creations

Melissa vs Julia 1 collage

The Melissa Cardigan features a pieced dolman sleeve, fully faced rounded collar, and roomy fit.

The Julia offers cap, 3/4, and full length set in sleeves, options for fully faced or one piece rounded collar, and casual fit.

Melissa vs Julia 3 collage

Let’s compare.

Instructions.

Melissa: Size chart is on website, but not in the instructions. Print/scale checks are throughout the pattern so you can always be sure the pattern printed correctly. The size lines are in color, so if printing in black & white it can be tough when the lines are tight together. The instructions for garment construction are clear and easy to follow.

Julia:  Instructions for construction are clear and easy to follow. The pattern has a few pattern markings to help line up pieces and are useful for stripe/pattern matching.

Fit.

Melissa: Great overall fit. I shortened the sleeves 3in, a typical adjustment for me.

Julia: Runs small. I made one size up and ended up with the right fit. It feels tight to me at the back neck, I think the back neckline needs to be scooped out a little. Not a fan of how the fabric puddles at my hip.

Style.

Melissa: The loose fit open front cardigan style is very on trend, but dolman sleeves are not for everyone.

Julia: The open front cardigan style is very on trend. Long and short sleeve options are included.

Investment.

Melissa: Time; 2.5 hours   Cost; Fabrics $10    Pattern $6   About 2yd @ 60in wide

Julia: Time; 2.75 hours   Cost; Fabrics $5.50    Pattern $6.95*   About 2.5yd @ 60in wide

Opportunities.

Melissa: Colorblocking of collar and sleeves. Variety of fabrics can be used.

Julia: Colorblocking of collar and sleeve length options. Need fabrics with stretch.

Melissa vs Julia 2 collage

For me, the Melissa is the winner. The Melissa is an overall better fitting pattern, has my favorite sleeve style, a better fitting collar, and longer length.

*$6.95 was my price through Up Craft Club for the Julia Cardigan. I received the Melissa pattern for free from Zierstoff Patterns.

Sew Long Summer inspiration from our sponsors

I’m very thankful to On the Cutting Floor, Blue Dot Patterns, and Zierstoff Patterns for partnering with me to make Sew Long Summer extra fun for you.

On the Cutting Floor is going to give away a pattern of choice to one lucky winner.

The giveaway ends soon so click through here to enter: GIVEAWAY

I already have the Santiago Jacket and the Megan Blouse on my fall sewing list.

 

How great would the Adeline Dress in denim or the long sleeve Sarah Dress in a double knit be for fall?

Use Code: SEWLONG for 50% off patterns from On the Cutting Floor   (Ends 9/17/16)

From Blue Dot Patterns I’m wanting another Ally Skirt in red. I love cotton sateen, but a fine corduroy would be cool weather appropriate.

May I suggest the Georgia Top in a cuddly french terry or following Diane’s tutorial for hacking her Dover Jacket into a car coat length.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Use Code: SewLongSummer for 25% off patterns from Blue Dot Patterns (Ends 9/17/16)

I’ve already used the discount to buy the SVEA pants from Zierstoff Patterns, but keep finding more that I want to make on every visit to their site.

The ALIZIA is speaking my colorblocking language and the KAREN has a great fit and cowl to keep you warm.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Use Code: zierstoffpatterns20 for 20% off patterns at Zierstoff Patterns  (Ends 9/17/16)

There’s just a few more hours to take advantage of these discounts, so get going.

Thank you so very much for reading along with the Sew Long Summer tour and leaving comments for the participating bloggers.

 

 

**I have an affiliate relationship with On the Cutting Floor, meaning if you make a purchase through my links to her site, I’ll receive a small portion of the sale.

Sew Long Summer is back!

Yay! Sew Long Summer is back and starts next Monday.

This year I have over 25 bloggers joining me to share how we say “Sew Long” to summer. Here’s the line up:

Sept. 12th Sewing by Ti,  Cindy Parrett,  Sewing Vortex, Renata Laura, Couturious, Nina Makes

Sept. 13th mahlicadesignsMusings of a SeamstressRainy Day SewingSprouting Jube Jube, Sewing A La CarteAnne-Mari Sews

Sept. 14th AppleGreen CottagemahlicadesignsKaleidothought, PrettiModesti, Olive Ashby, Sewing Bee Fabrics

Sept. 15th Lulu & Celeste, Diane Cullum of Two ChickletsAdventures With Bubba and BugWining WifeThe Pumpkin RoomSewing A La CarteAnne-Mari sews

Sept. 16th Sewing by TiMusings of a SeamstressTales of a TesterAlmost a hippyAt Margareta’s HausSewing A La CarteBirds Of A Kettle

We’re also joined by Blue Dot Patterns, Zierstoff Patterns, and On the Cutting Floor who will be offering our readers discounts during the tour.

Sponsor Collage Final

Want to show off how you say “Sew Long Summer”?  Use #sewlongsummer16 on Instagram and facebook and I’ll feature you in a wrap up post at the end of the blog tour.

A Margo Mod for Pattern Hack week on The Monthly Stitch

Since seeing this cute top on pinterest, I’ve had it on my sewing list to make one for myself. The Margo Blouse quickly came to mind as a pattern I could use as a jumping off point.

Margo Hack by mahlicadesigns

I’m calling this one a success!  With just a few minor missteps working with these fabrics, I found the fruition of my idea came along pretty easily.

Margo Hack by mahlicadesigns

The Pattern: The Margo Blouse from Blue Dot Patterns. I used the straight hem version with the 3/4 length sleeve in a size small. After making my modifications to the yokes, I followed the pattern directions for an easy finish.

The Fabric: 1/2y of rayon/spandex jersey and 1/2y black mesh. I also used 3/8in elastic in the sleeve hems as directed and 5/8in FOE at the neckline.

Margo Hack by mahlicadesigns

The Mods:

1. I added my own button plackets, made from the jersey knit, to the back by cutting the back yoke in half at center back and adding a 1in x 4.25in finished placket piece to each edge. I overlapped the plackets, basted along the bottom and then attached the yoke to the bodice as normal.

2. I raised the neckline at center front by 2.5in and smoothed out the curve.

3.  I used FOE to finish my neckline (the pattern has yoke facings as a finish) and French seams at the shoulder and sleeve seams.

Margo Hack by mahlicadesigns

Next time I would raise the seamline across the front about 3/4in, it just looks a little low to me with the shear fabric. I would also only raise the neckline at center front by 2in instead of 2.5in, it feels a little high.

Making a modified Margo should take you about 4.75 hours or less.

Total Cost: $11.50     Fabrics: $10    Notions $1.50      Pattern $0*

I’m submitting my Margo hack into The Monthly Stitch’s contest for Indie Pattern Month. Take a look at what other sewists are doing and return to The Monthly Stitch on June 24th to vote for your favorite pattern hacks.

 

*I received a free copy of the Margo Blouse Pattern for hosting the Creative Sewing Challenge.

Ally Skirt from Blue Dot Patterns

Frankly, I was very happy to let the current “denim everything” trend pass on by me. If I followed the trend back in middle school, I just don’t want anything to do with it.

And yet once again, my mind was changed by a pattern. The Ally Skirt is a six gore skirt with contoured waistband, length options, flap, pocket option, and top stitching.

Ally skirt on mahlcadesigns

Two ideas struck immediately when looking at the Ally; denim with copper snaps and yellow top stitching or corduroy in a camel/caramel color for that 70s feel. So very on trend right now. The new Ally Skirt just called out to be made up in denim.

I tested the Ally Skirt pattern for Blue Dot Patterns. Blue Dot Patterns may sound familiar. I’ve made up two Georgia‘s (here and here), hosted the Creative Sewing Challenge last fall, and one of my ideas for the Margo Blouse is on my sewing table now.

Ally Skirt by mahlicadesigns

I used a lightweight 7 oz. denim from my stash to make up my Ally in a size medium. With some pattern piece Tetris and using an extremely tight lay out, I was able to get my skirt cut out of 5/8 yard x 60in wide. If you have a directional print, fabric with nap, or narrower fabric; you’ll need more.

Ally Skirt by mahlicadesigns

Why I recommend the pattern: 1. Oh my is it so easy. All the pieces could get confusing, but the way they’re labeled and notched makes it no problem. 2. Diane, the pattern designer, even includes fitting as part of the pattern directions. Instead of a 1/2in seam allowance at the sides, I used a 5/8in seam allowance: Fitting Done! 3. A contoured waist band. I’m a pear shape so that’s perfect for me. 4. The style is classic and very on trend right now too.

Get yours! Get your Ally pattern for 30% off, for a limited time, directly from Blue Dot Patterns or from UpCraft Club.

Ally Skirt by mahlicadesigns

I chose snaps that were bigger than the recommended button size, so I skipped the top stitching at the outer edge of the button placket.

Ally Skirt by mahlicadesigns

Hey, I’m pretty proud of my top stitching here.

Ally Skirt by mahlicadesigns

That pocket flap is purely decor. I don’t need pockets in everything, so I’m cool with it. If you are in the pockets on everything camp there’s a pocket option for you.

I styled the Ally skirt with a cowl neck tee; with my banded Kirsten Kimono tee and RTW jacket; and a RTW sweater.

Ally Styling collage

The Ally should take you about 3.75 hours to complete. In a size medium with creative layout I used 5/8 yard of fabric.

Total cost: $6.50           Fabric: $3      Notions: $3.50       Pattern: $0*

 

*I received the Ally Pattern for free as a tester. Do I have to explain that these are my own thoughts about the pattern? They are.

Georgia On My Mind. I hacked the Georgia Top again

I made my first Georgia Top for the Creative Sewing Challenge back in November and when putting together a post to inspire creativity with the Georgia pattern, I just had to put another version on my “to sew” list.

Georgia Hack by mahlicadesigns

I used the Georgia Top from Blue Dot Patterns in a size small again and modified the pattern by adding length to the sleeves and making a new cutting line for the lace piecing (tutorial below).

Georgia Hack by mahlicadesigns

I used a stable jersey knit from my stash paired with a lace purchased from Fabric Mart. I’ve not sewn with lace before, but since the lace I chose is not as fine and sheer as some lace can be, I just treated it like a knit and constructed the whole project with my serger. No problems.

Georgia Hack by mahlicadesigns

I’m just as pleased with my second Georgia, but have to laugh at myself for making two versions that have built in ventilation.

Georgia Hack by mahlicadesigns

Get my look (tutorial):

Let’s draw a new pattern line on the front pattern piece. I marked my outside shoulder at 4.25in from the neckline. I made a bust mark 4in down from CF neckline and 5in over (next time I’d make it 6in over to cover more of my chest). I marked the side 4in up from the bottom. I used a French curve to draw my new cutting line; keeping the line through most of the body vertical with a slight curve up to the shoulder and a dramatic curve at the waistline.

**I had the benefit of having a Georgia already made that I could use to determine the placement of my markings.

New Drawing lines

Cut along your new pattern line. Take a moment to label your new piece. Use your new front piece to trace your line onto the unmodified back piece. Cut your new pattern line on the back and label.

New drawing line traced

New Pieces Cut

I added 7.5in to the sleeve to make it long sleeve on me ( I’dd add more next time). I recommend you do some measuring to figure what will work for you.

Tips:

  • Label your new pattern pieces.
  • Add seam allowance to your new cut lines: I marked the cutting line on my fabric with chalk; you can trace off new pattern pieces if you want.
  • Make sure you’re ok with the amount of exposure the lace will give. I plan on wearing a cami.

A modified Georgia top should take you 2 hours to complete. Add about 20 minutes to draw new pattern lines.

Fabric $3  Pattern $0*  Total Cost $3

I received the Georgia Top Pattern free as a gift for hosting the Creative Sewing Challenge