Onyx Shirt for SV Design Crew

Onyx Shirt by mahlicadesigns

I didn’t get much of my summer sewing wish list done this year. Oh well. I had a big sigh and flipped that mental switch to fall sewing, so I could get ready for the Sew Long Summer blog tour in September. Enter an indian summer here in Colorado and this colorful woven from Sew Vagabond to give me a second chance to make the Onyx Shirt from my summer list.

IG square

The loose casual fit of the Onyx is going to make this shirt a big player in my wardrobe. Paired with shorts, jeans, or cardigans; the Onyx works well with others and the print will liven up the mostly neutrals I wear.

Onyx Shirt

Pattern: The Onyx Shirt from Paprika Patterns in size 4, view A, w/out cuffs or button tabs. A quick and easy sew. I was able to eek out my size from 1yd x 52in wide, but another 1/4yd would have helped with better stripe matching on the sleeves and allowed me to add the cuffs. Using French Seams to finish your insides is going to make it look terrific on the inside too.

Onyx Shirt

Fabric: The Natural Tribal rayon/cotton blend from Sew Vagabond (hurry it’ll be sold out soon). The blended woven is perfect for this project. It presses and sews wonderfully while having a nice drape.

Onyx Shirt

 

The Onyx Shirt took me 3 hours to complete.

Total Cost: $12    Fabric $0*        Pattern $12

** When I make a qualifying purchase as part of the SV Design Crew, I receive 2 free yards of fabric to make whatever I want and Sew Vagabond Shop gets to use my pictures to show off their fabrics.

V Slit Blouse Simplicity 1430

Today I’m going to share just a little bit about the V front blouse that I included in the spring capsule wardrobe I worked on for the Sew Alongs And Sewing Contests fb group.

Me Made May really showed that I was missing some of the Core Colors from my wardrobe, so I immediately started making Simplicity 1430 View B in a red lawn from Fabric Mart and crossed off a long waiting project.

V Slit blouse

This cute number went together pretty easily until I hit the neck band technique. My gut instinct was to apply a bias binding, but I decided to follow the pattern. Uh-Oh. The instructions have you apply a pieced neckband, a neckband facing, and stitch through all the layers. That adds up to seven layers at the shoulder seams. The result, even in a lightweight lawn, was a  thick rope-like neckband.

V Slit blouse 1

I hated this neckband, so I ripped it off and added a 1in facing instead. I’m so much happier with the fit and feel. To keep that cut out look, you could use a bias binding.

V Slit blouse

V Slit blouse

The pattern: Simplicity 1430 View B, size 12. Stupid neckband removed and replaced with a facing, closure at CB eliminated and 1/2in added to hip.

V Slit blouse

The fabric: 100% cotton lawn from Fabric Mart, long sold out.

V Slit blouse

 

Notes: Choose an easier option for the neck binding and skip the back closure if you want to.

Simplicty 1430 view B should take you about 3.5 hours to make. A size 12 used 1yd of fabric.

Total cost: $3.50         Fabric $3.50             Pattern $0-stash

I took a leap this week.

I’ve been making a few navy tops lately and didn’t really feel like they paired up well with the bottoms is my wardrobe. After a little brainstroming, I got an idea.

Goldenrod Yellow – Meet my toned down color palette and work some magic!

Union St Tee w/ S2451 skirt

I’ve had it in my mind that I cannot wear yellow because of some bad color choices in the past that made me look sickly. I’ve also been wanting a yellow jacket for the longest time and kept hoping to find the right yellow tone that would work for me.

S2541 Golderod Skirt w/ Union St Tee

Enter a TNT skirt pattern and this goldenrod fabric from my destash pile and a small prayer that this idea would work.

S2541 Golderod Skirt w/ Georgia Top

I think I have a small victory here. I can wear yellow and my wardrobe is now better rounded.

S2451 in Goldenrod

The pattern: Simplicity 2451 view D with front pleats removed in size 14. Removing the pleats was the only alteration. I simply folded/pinched out the pleats from the pattern tissue before cutting.

The fabric: I pulled this cotton(?) woven out of my giveaway/sell stack. I inherited it some time ago and it was so close to being donated.

Notes: My first time making a lapped zipper; oh my, so much easier than an invisible zipper. Despite reviewing my notes from the last time I made this skirt, I forgot to add some length. I had a narrower hem to work with than I’d like, but really no big deal.

Styling: I’ve paired my Goldenrod skirt with a charcoal Union St. Tee (unblogged), my lace Georgia hack, and a rtw blouse (meh).

Goldenrod Skirt collage

Simplicty 2451 view D should take you about 3 hours to make. A size 14 used 1yd of fabric, hem tape, and a purchased zipper.

Total cost: $2.00    Fabric $0-stash     Notions(zipper) $2        Pattern $0-stash

Have you been making any bold sewing moves lately?

Zircon Sweater

I’m well on my way to making all of the offerings from Paprika Patterns. I just love the unique pieces she creates. Once again I jumped at the chance to help as a pattern tester for the recent release of the Zircon Sweater.

Zircon by mahlicadesigns

When the Zircon hit my inbox, I was going through my annual temperature freakout; that time of year when I feel a few degrees cooler and irrationally layer on the clothes like the Michelin Man. So what else is a girl to do than sew up a winter worthy Zircon out of polar fleece from my stash. I may have jumped the gun a bit with the fabric choice, but now that winter has set in, I’m thankful to have a warm go to sweater.

Zircon Sweater

Earlier this year I struggled with getting the insert corners neat on my Wendy Top. I did much better this time with the Zircon. It takes care and patience to get the inserts done correctly, but an intermediate sewer can do it. After the inserts, the pattern is a breeze to complete.

Zircon front akimbo

I made no alterations to the pattern. The sleeve ended up hitting right at my wrist, were I prefer it, on my shorty arms even though it is supposed to be bracelet length.

Zicron Sweater

Zircon back akimbo

The second Zircon I’m planning will be in a navy ponte with flocked polka dots paired up with a ivory/cream for the insert.

ircon 2 fabrics

I received the Zircon pattern free for being a tester. (The final pattern may be slightly different)

The Zircon may take you 3.5 hours.

Pattern: $0  Fabric: $7.75  Total $7.75

And hooray for stashbusting.

On another note, I’ve added a Buy It page up there in the menu. I have a few things I’ve made, some fabric to destash, and even a few free things*

*you pay to ship

Jalie Drop Pocket Cardigan for Core Wardrobe building

Holi-Daze week for my Sew Long Summer sew along was a bit of a challenge sewing wise. I was hoping to make a big batch of tees or undies, but it just didn’t happen. Weekends are not where I get my sewing time, so I just barely finished the Jalie cardigan I was working on to show off with my sewing tips post.

Drop Pocket Cardigan 1

I’ve had the Jalie Drop Pocket Cardigan on my list since I saw Jamie’s last December. I’ve also been seeing Hacci knits around and wondered what they are like to sew and if using one would give me a warmer cardigan. The jury is still out on the warmth; it’s not quite cardigan weather yet. I purchased my Hacci sweater knit from Girl Charlee during their July 4 sale.

Drop Pocket Cardigan by mahlicadesigns

A little about the pattern. Jalie patterns come on a large sheet for you to trace off and include a huge range of sizes. The seam allowance on this one was pretty narrow at 1/4inch. Since I was using my serger I was ok with it, but otherwise I would recommend you think about adding more of a seam allowance as you trace. The pattern is put together to enclose as many seams as possible, because of this there were points in the instructions that I definitely would have been lost without the diagrams, so have both handy.

The pattern is a fabric hog, needing four of the front pieces shaped like a big “L” so the pocket part folds over the front. With stripe matching and my best pattern Tetris skills, I got a size U for 36in bust out of 2.25 yards (60in wide).

Drop Pocket Cardigan by mahlicadesigns

Hot Tip: Check your length before you cut. The pocket does not allow for much to be just cropped off the bottom if you forget.

Working with the Hacci sweater knit was very similar to working with a jersey knit; a little rolling at the edges but no fraying. I had some trouble getting the tension adjusted on my Janome 4618LE sewing machine to handle the stretch of the Hacci, but had no problem using my serger for the majority of the construction. I would think twice if I only had my machine to use.

Jalie’s Drop Pocket Cardigan should take you about 3.5 hours cut to finish.

Fabric $9      Pattern $ free     Total $9

Get Fall Fabulous with the Jasper Sweater Dress

Are you excited for a chance to win the Jasper Sweater pattern from Paprika Patterns? Be sure to link up your Fabulous Fall creation for your chance to win.

Jasper Dress

I love the Jasper Sweater pattern. I’m a sucker for a cowl neck, the hoody version has an interesting asymmetry at the neckline, princess seams are for everybody, and welt pockets make you look like a sewing super star. Now, I rarely make a pattern twice and this is my third Jasper, so you know I’m a true fan.

Jasper Dress

For my dress version, I picked up this quilted knit jacquard in a royal blue from Fabric Mart. The fabric did not have as much body as I was hoping for in my fall/winter dress, so my solution was to underline the bodice with an interlock knit from my stash. The jacquard doesn’t hold a press, so I omitted the welt pockets.

Jasper Dress

The underlining worked perfectly to give me the warmth I was wanting. This Jasper dress is going to work nicely for fall’s cool days and easily worn through the winter with tights or leggings.

Japser Dress

Orange Zip Skirt Simplicity 2451

I came across this vintage zipper from my grandmother in my stash and thought I’d use it as an exposed zipper in a project. I was drifting off to sleep, often when inspiration hits me, when I thought about pairing it with this cotton sateen I saw at Joann fabrics.

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I was hoping this knit red top would be a natural outfit, but meh, I’m liking it much better with this blue blouse.

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I’ve sewn up Simplicity 2451 view B in the past and really like how it fits me, so I chose view D feeling confident on a good fit. I had to lengthen the back darts an additional 3/8in for a better fit, but nothing else needed alteration.

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A couple new techniques for me on this skirt. I sewed the exposed zipper using this tutorial from Pattern Runway as a guide, next time I might try to figure out how to encase the end of the zipper tape for a nicer interior finish. I also used a stretch lace hem tape for the first time. I wanted to avoid the bulk of a double folded hem and keep as much length as I could. The tape worked perfectly.

Overall I’m pretty pleased with my Orange Zip skirt. The fit at the waistline and hips is spot on. On the down side, the cotton sateen is a bit stiff at the front pleats and poofs out a bit more than I’d like, but that’s not going to stop me from wearing it.

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Awkward arm posing

Here’s to more stash busting. I used a pattern, zipper, and hem tape from my stash.

SewYourPatternStashSq213

Simplicity 2451 View D should take you about 2.75 hours to complete.