Layered V-Neck Tutorial from mahlicadesigns

I ran across a picture of a v-neck tee a while back that had a double layered neck band and added it to my collection of interesting clothing details to try someday. Unlike most things in my little collection, I did spend some time working this one out using the Tabor V-neck pattern and I’ve put together a tutorial to share with you.

For my layered V-neck I used oatmeal Baby French Terry from Simply By Ti. The baby french terry is light enough to drape nicely in the Tabor and there’s barely any bulk in the double layered neckband. When choosing fabric for your project, experiment by folding layers together to see if you like how they look.

I’m really happy with the overall look I achieved with the layered neckband and this color has been a very useful addition to my wardrobe. If I were to do it again though, I might not use the Tabor pattern combined with this technique. The V on the Tabor is pretty deep and using a narrower band than the pattern calls for at the center front makes me feel a little exposed.

Maybe, but probably not, I’ll put on the wider band that the Tabor calls for (because I love this top) and make another layered V-neck using another pattern.

Layered V-Neck Tutorial

The measurements provided are based on the Tabor V-neck size 8. As a guideline, the outerband should come down and cover approximately 2/3 the length of the front of your v-neck, shoulder to center front. My innerband starts at the shoulder and goes to center front. You can also cut the inner band to fit the entire neckband if you are not concerned about bulk.

You can adapt the technique to your favorite V-neck tee pattern, but you’ll need to adjust the band lengths I’ve given to fit.

Cut your custom bands:

Innerband cut 2:   2.25in X 14in    (3/4in finished width)

Outerband cut 1:   3in X 25in    (1 1/8in finished width)

Interface the center V on the bodice of your tee and sew the front and back together at the shoulders.

Apply fusible web along the short ends of the outerband piece. Fold back the short ends wrong sides together by 1/2in and press to secure with the fusible web.

Mark the center (center back) and mark the shoulder seams 5in away from center back on the outerband.

Sew the innerband pieces together forming a V at center front. Using a 3/8in seam allowance, insert and baste the innerband into place along the V. Don’t baste the entire length of the inner bands, just a few inches around the center V.

Starting at center back, leaving the outerband unfolded, pin the single layer of the outerband in place along the neckline. Stretch the outerband slightly as you pin in place from center back to the shoulder seam. The bands don’t need to be eased in from shoulder to center front.

Next, pin the innerband in place along the bottom portion of the neckline up to the shoulder seam. The innerband should overlap the single layer of the outerband.  Trim away any excess length of the inner band that extends past the shoulder seam.

Lastly, fold over the outerband, sandwiching the innerband within and repin all layers as needed along the entire neckline. Remember the outerband is eased slightly between the shoulders and center back.

If you want to check your proportions first, baste the entire neck band into place (innerband and outerband now functioning as one unit) using a 3/8in seam allowance.

Sew/serge your layered neckband into place using 3/8in seam allowance. Complete the construction of your tee per the pattern instructions.

As always, thanks for reading today.

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You might also like: Tabor V-Neck and Lander shorts

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Bronte Top – Who Made It Best

Welcome back to Who Made It Best, a new series on mahlicadesigns.

Who Made It Best is a friendly challenge where one of my blogger friends joins me in making up the same pattern to see Who Made It Best. The challenge rules are simple: 1. We agree on a pattern to use 2. sew it up to suit our personal styles 3. share it with you and ask you to vote. (Oh, and we keep what we’re up to a secret from each other)

Rachel from Sew RED-y has joined me in making up the Bronte Top from Jennifer Lauren Handmade for the challenge and you can check out her version here.

This is my first try at making a Bronte Top and I’d say it’s only a so so try. I was between sizes and accidentaly cut the size smaller instead of the size up. I’m getting pulling and bunching on the shoulder overlap and the shoulder seam is pretty wonky. After I snapped these photos, I noticed I completely missed the instructions to tack them down to prevent this very problem.

I’m not sure if I can get over the snug fit on this one. I feel like I prespire a lot, so tops that are snug under my arms make me very uncomfortable.

On the bright side, I’m very pleased with this outfit. I’m a chicken when it comes to mixing prints, but I think these work well together.

So, who do you think made the Bronte Top best? Please visit Sew RED-Y for more pictures and details on her version, then place your vote for Who Made It Best. The poll will be on both sites, so you can see both versions before you choose your favorite. Voting open for one week and results will be posted on Instagram.

VOTE HERE

You can follow me on instagram, Bloglovin, or by entering your email in the right side bar.

As always, thanks for visiting and voting today.

If you’d like to join me in a challenge this fall, shoot me a message at mahlicadesigns@gmail.com

Onyx Shirt for SV Design Crew

I didn’t get much of my summer sewing wish list done this year. Oh well. I had a big sigh and flipped that mental switch to fall sewing, so I could get ready for the Sew Long Summer blog tour in September. Enter an indian summer here in Colorado and this colorful woven from Sew Vagabond to give me a second chance to make the Onyx Shirt from my summer list.

The loose casual fit of the Onyx is going to make this shirt a big player in my wardrobe. Paired with shorts, jeans, or cardigans; the Onyx works well with others and the print will liven up the mostly neutrals I wear.

Pattern: The Onyx Shirt from Paprika Patterns in size 4, view A, w/out cuffs or button tabs. A quick and easy sew. I was able to eek out my size from 1yd x 52in wide, but another 1/4yd would have helped with better stripe matching on the sleeves and allowed me to add the cuffs. Using French Seams to finish your insides is going to make it look terrific on the inside too.

Fabric: The Natural Tribal rayon/cotton blend from Sew Vagabond (hurry it’ll be sold out soon). The blended woven is perfect for this project. It presses and sews wonderfully while having a nice drape.

 

The Onyx Shirt took me 3 hours to complete.

Total Cost: $12    Fabric $0*        Pattern $12

** When I make a qualifying purchase as part of the SV Design Crew, I receive 2 free yards of fabric to make whatever I want and Sew Vagabond Shop gets to use my pictures to show off their fabrics.

V Slit Blouse Simplicity 1430

Today I’m going to share just a little bit about the V front blouse that I included in the spring capsule wardrobe I worked on for the Sew Alongs And Sewing Contests fb group.

Me Made May really showed that I was missing some of the Core Colors from my wardrobe, so I immediately started making Simplicity 1430 View B in a red lawn from Fabric Mart and crossed off a long waiting project.

This cute number went together pretty easily until I hit the neck band technique. My gut instinct was to apply a bias binding, but I decided to follow the pattern. Uh-Oh. The instructions have you apply a pieced neckband, a neckband facing, and stitch through all the layers. That adds up to seven layers at the shoulder seams. The result, even in a lightweight lawn, was a  thick rope-like neckband.

I hated this neckband, so I ripped it off and added a 1in facing instead. I’m so much happier with the fit and feel. To keep that cut out look, you could use a bias binding.

The pattern: Simplicity 1430 View B, size 12. Stupid neckband removed and replaced with a facing, closure at CB eliminated and 1/2in added to hip.

The fabric: 100% cotton lawn from Fabric Mart, long sold out.

 

Notes: Choose an easier option for the neck binding and skip the back closure if you want to.

Simplicty 1430 view B should take you about 3.5 hours to make. A size 12 used 1yd of fabric.

Total cost: $3.50         Fabric $3.50             Pattern $0-stash

I took a leap this week.

I’ve been making a few navy tops lately and didn’t really feel like they paired up well with the bottoms is my wardrobe. After a little brainstroming, I got an idea.

Goldenrod Yellow – Meet my toned down color palette and work some magic!

I’ve had it in my mind that I cannot wear yellow because of some bad color choices in the past that made me look sickly. I’ve also been wanting a yellow jacket for the longest time and kept hoping to find the right yellow tone that would work for me.

Enter a TNT skirt pattern and this goldenrod fabric from my destash pile and a small prayer that this idea would work.

I think I have a small victory here. I can wear yellow and my wardrobe is now better rounded.

The pattern: Simplicity 2451 view D with front pleats removed in size 14. Removing the pleats was the only alteration. I simply folded/pinched out the pleats from the pattern tissue before cutting.

The fabric: I pulled this cotton(?) woven out of my giveaway/sell stack. I inherited it some time ago and it was so close to being donated.

Notes: My first time making a lapped zipper; oh my, so much easier than an invisible zipper. Despite reviewing my notes from the last time I made this skirt, I forgot to add some length. I had a narrower hem to work with than I’d like, but really no big deal.

Styling: I’ve paired my Goldenrod skirt with a charcoal Union St. Tee (unblogged), my lace Georgia hack, and a rtw blouse (meh).

Simplicty 2451 view D should take you about 3 hours to make. A size 14 used 1yd of fabric, hem tape, and a purchased zipper.

Total cost: $2.00    Fabric $0-stash     Notions(zipper) $2        Pattern $0-stash

Have you been making any bold sewing moves lately?

Zircon Sweater

I’m well on my way to making all of the offerings from Paprika Patterns. I just love the unique pieces she creates. Once again I jumped at the chance to help as a pattern tester for the recent release of the Zircon Sweater.

When the Zircon hit my inbox, I was going through my annual temperature freakout; that time of year when I feel a few degrees cooler and irrationally layer on the clothes like the Michelin Man. So what else is a girl to do than sew up a winter worthy Zircon out of polar fleece from my stash. I may have jumped the gun a bit with the fabric choice, but now that winter has set in, I’m thankful to have a warm go to sweater.

Earlier this year I struggled with getting the insert corners neat on my Wendy Top. I did much better this time with the Zircon. It takes care and patience to get the inserts done correctly, but an intermediate sewer can do it. After the inserts, the pattern is a breeze to complete.

I made no alterations to the pattern. The sleeve ended up hitting right at my wrist, were I prefer it, on my shorty arms even though it is supposed to be bracelet length.

The second Zircon I’m planning will be in a navy ponte with flocked polka dots paired up with a ivory/cream for the insert.

I received the Zircon pattern free for being a tester. (The final pattern may be slightly different)

The Zircon may take you 3.5 hours.

Pattern: $0  Fabric: $7.75  Total $7.75

And hooray for stashbusting.

On another note, I’ve added a Buy It page up there in the menu. I have a few things I’ve made, some fabric to destash, and even a few free things*

*you pay to ship

Jalie Drop Pocket Cardigan for Core Wardrobe building

Holi-Daze week for my Sew Long Summer sew along was a bit of a challenge sewing wise. I was hoping to make a big batch of tees or undies, but it just didn’t happen. Weekends are not where I get my sewing time, so I just barely finished the Jalie cardigan I was working on to show off with my sewing tips post.

I’ve had the Jalie Drop Pocket Cardigan on my list since I saw Jamie’s last December. I’ve also been seeing Hacci knits around and wondered what they are like to sew and if using one would give me a warmer cardigan. The jury is still out on the warmth; it’s not quite cardigan weather yet. I purchased my Hacci sweater knit from Girl Charlee during their July 4 sale.

A little about the pattern. Jalie patterns come on a large sheet for you to trace off and include a huge range of sizes. The seam allowance on this one was pretty narrow at 1/4inch. Since I was using my serger I was ok with it, but otherwise I would recommend you think about adding more of a seam allowance as you trace. The pattern is put together to enclose as many seams as possible, because of this there were points in the instructions that I definitely would have been lost without the diagrams, so have both handy.

The pattern is a fabric hog, needing four of the front pieces shaped like a big “L” so the pocket part folds over the front. With stripe matching and my best pattern Tetris skills, I got a size U for 36in bust out of 2.25 yards (60in wide).

Hot Tip: Check your length before you cut. The pocket does not allow for much to be just cropped off the bottom if you forget.

Working with the Hacci sweater knit was very similar to working with a jersey knit; a little rolling at the edges but no fraying. I had some trouble getting the tension adjusted on my Janome 4618LE sewing machine to handle the stretch of the Hacci, but had no problem using my serger for the majority of the construction. I would think twice if I only had my machine to use.

Jalie’s Drop Pocket Cardigan should take you about 3.5 hours cut to finish.

Fabric $9      Pattern $ free     Total $9

Get Fall Fabulous with the Jasper Sweater Dress

Are you excited for a chance to win the Jasper Sweater pattern from Paprika Patterns? Be sure to link up your Fabulous Fall creation for your chance to win.

I love the Jasper Sweater pattern. I’m a sucker for a cowl neck, the hoody version has an interesting asymmetry at the neckline, princess seams are for everybody, and welt pockets make you look like a sewing super star. Now, I rarely make a pattern twice and this is my third Jasper, so you know I’m a true fan.

For my dress version, I picked up this quilted knit jacquard in a royal blue from Fabric Mart. The fabric did not have as much body as I was hoping for in my fall/winter dress, so my solution was to underline the bodice with an interlock knit from my stash. The jacquard doesn’t hold a press, so I omitted the welt pockets.

The underlining worked perfectly to give me the warmth I was wanting. This Jasper dress is going to work nicely for fall’s cool days and easily worn through the winter with tights or leggings.

Orange Zip Skirt Simplicity 2451

Vintage 1972 Zip

Dots Maze Sateen

I came across this vintage zipper from my grandmother in my stash and thought I’d use it as an exposed zipper in a project. I was drifting off to sleep, often when inspiration hits me, when I thought about pairing it with this cotton sateen I saw at Joann fabrics.

I was hoping this knit red top would be a natural outfit, but meh, I’m liking it much better with this blue blouse.

I’ve sewn up Simplicity 2451 view B in the past and really like how it fits me, so I chose view D feeling confident on a good fit. I had to lengthen the back darts an additional 3/8in for a better fit, but nothing else needed alteration.

A couple new techniques for me on this skirt. I sewed the exposed zipper using this tutorial from Pattern Runway as a guide, next time I might try to figure out how to encase the end of the zipper tape for a nicer interior finish. I also used a stretch lace hem tape for the first time. I wanted to avoid the bulk of a double folded hem and keep as much length as I could. The tape worked perfectly.

Overall I’m pretty pleased with my Orange Zip skirt. The fit at the waistline and hips is spot on. On the down side, the cotton sateen is a bit stiff at the front pleats and poofs out a bit more than I’d like, but that’s not going to stop me from wearing it.

Awkward arm posing

Here’s to more stash busting. I used a pattern, zipper, and hem tape from my stash.

Simplicity 2451 View D should take you about 2.75 hours to complete.

Rose Tshirt from Blank Slate Patterns; pattern review

Theres nothing like purple to make me happy and to help break out of the basic colors I’ve been using to build my Core Wardrobe. The first of much more color to come for Spring and Summer, is my version of the Rose Tshirt from Blank Slate Patterns.

Body is more of a plum color like the accent pieces

 

Likes:

• The gathering at the front adds some nice ease through the body without making it baggy and I did not need to size up at the hips like usual.
• Great pattern for a little stash busting of those quilting cottons I haven’t touched in a while.
• The contrast options at the neckline draw the eye up and away from the tummy and hips.
• I like inserting sleeves flat.
• Theres a full facing on the front to cover up all those seams.
• The pattern can easily be made into a dress with just a little grading for the hip/thigh. (The pattern has been re-released to include a dress option)

Criticisms:

• The seams at the front of the arm scythe are pretty bulky with three layers there. I’d recommend using a lighter weight fabric for the front facing to reduce the bulk.
• The arm scythe at the front curves in toward the center front a bit and causes some pulling. I’m not going to spend time to adjust the pattern as I’m only planning to use this pattern again for a sleeveless version.
• I determined that the triangle shape marking on pattern piece#6 needs to be moved by 1in down toward the center front to make the two front pieces #6 and #5  line up correctly. I purchased my pattern from a store, perhaps the PDF versions in the Blank Slate Patterns webstore have been corrected.

  

  Corrected marking in Red

Suggestions:

• Go down a size if you’re between sizes. I’m a 35.5in bust and the small sized for up to a 35in bust has enough ease for me.
• Understitch the facing around the neckline to prevent rolling, before top-stitching the front facing below the front yoke.
• Use a lighter weight fabric for the front facing if possible, this will decrease bulk at the arm seams. Alternately, grade the seam allowances if you’re not using a serger.
• Check your pattern pieces.
• Lay out your front yoke pieces as demonstrated in the instructions to help keep track of what goes where.
• I use stay tape at my shoulder seams when sewing with knits.

The Rose Tshirt takes about 3.25 hours to complete.

McCalls 6559 Summer Stripes dress; Core Wardrobe part 5

Come on warm weather, I’d like to see you.

The warmth is still a ways off for us, but that’s why we take vacations right? In honor of warm vacations to come and because I just need/want to focus on spring and summer Core Wardrobe pieces I’m trying a pattern out of my stash. McCalls 6559.

I found this striped knit, in my Core colors, in the Joanns red tag section. It was pretty stiff feeling, but at $2.5/yd I thought it would make a good beach cover up and give me some practice matching stripes. To my surprise, it softened up nicely after washing. Now I have a nice striped dress for summer, bonus!

I sewed up view D in a size 12. I went with the maxi length after I realized I had bought more yardage than I remembered and what the hey, why not test out how maxi length looks on me using a bargain fabric. I can always shorten it.

I made a few simple modifications to the pattern and instructions.  I used a 1/4in seam allowance at the sides because I was concerned about having enough width at my hips and thighs, this turned out to be unnecessary. Instead of turning and topstitching, I used self fabric as neck and armhole binding, I just think this looks better. I removed 3in from the length, I’m 5’4, and sewed the hem at 5/8in.

It took extra time of course, but I’m pretty pleased with the pattern matching at the side seams.

I can see this pattern being pretty useful in a lightweight knit as pajamas, as a beach coverup in the shorter length as I originally planned, and to show off some awesome prints.

McCalls 6559 took 3 hours, including the extra time needed to match stripes and add neck and armhole bindings.

Ann T Top from Style Arc; Core Wardrobe part 4

Today I’m working on building my Core Wardrobe and participating in Sew Your Pattern Stash 2015. I’m hoping to work through more of my unused patterns this year.

The Ann T Top pattern is from Style Arc. Their size chart suggested I should make a size 10, but after flat measuring the pattern I used an 8 instead and a 3/8in seam allowance instead of the 1/4in allotted. I was drawn to this pattern because of the draping across the tummy area, while still appearing to be a fitted tee.

The pattern instructions would be too sparse if you’re a novice, for example there is no instruction on how to use the clear elastic to create the gathers on the front or how to insert a neck binding. If you’ve sewn knit tees before, there is nothing here to challenge you, other than using the clear elastic to make the gathers.

Perhaps the fabric I used, a rayon jersey knit, affected the draping, perhaps I need to go down a size through the waist and arms, but I found the overall fit still needs some work for me. I was wanting more draped folds across the tummy, instead it just bags out a little and the arms are too baggy, but these fit problems are easy fixes. I  think I’ll adjust the arm width and remove the front gathers to make this a TNT pattern.

This project took 2.75 hours.

This is the last fall/winter Core Wardrobe piece for now. I’m turning my focus to spring/summer in hopes that I can get a few items done to wear when the warmth returns.

And, so I can feel a sense of accomplishment here’s what I made for my fall/winter Core Wardrobe:

Tonic 2 Tee

Jasper Sweater w collar

Jasper Sweater w hood

I’m counting the Kirsten Kimono Tee as a head start on my spring/summer Core.

Kirsten Kimono Tee

I’m feeling the itch to take a break from making the basics I need and these basic colors. I have a couple projects lined up that I think will lift my spirits with some color.

Whaaat…a pajama rama party?

I was not anticipating having to knock out more pajamas this year. (Sorry Core Wardrobe you’re at the back of the line again.) In rare form, I planned ahead for winter clothes for the little guy, even making one more set of pjs for him in August. Now all of a sudden toes are popping out of footie pjs and torso and arms are longer than his pj tops.

Thank you Shwin & Shwin for your free Pajama Rama pajama set pattern to solve my dilemma. I made this 4T pattern for my almost 3T little guy with the hopes that I can just lower the really deep hems next winter.  We’ll see.

Aren’t those puppies so cute? This flannel was originally intended for his Christmas Eve pjs, but necessity meant he was wearing these early. -And yes I know flannel isn’t made for kids pjs. I’m a grown up, my choice.

Do you see my goof up?  Puppies on one sleeve are “uppa see down” as my son would say. Yeah, I didn’t notice until I was sewing the button holes, so you know, not gonna fix it now.

Here’s a second version I made out of a stretchy polartec fleece.

Little guy says these are “so soft and fluffy”

This last set I made this week is under wraps until Christmas Eve.

Teal & Black Tee

As far as sewing for myself goes, I took a little break from Core Wardrobe pieces to work up an idea I had for a modified version of the Tonic 2 Tee by SBCC.

I really like asymmetry in clothing, so I modified the neckline a bit to make it interesting. I used a bit of the left over black knit from my original Tonic 2 Tee as the neckline trim, waistband, and cuff bands.

I removed 3 inches from the lower bodice and added a 3in band in the contrasting fabric. From the sleeves I removed 1in in length and added back a 1in band. I measured my new neckline length and subtracted 15% to get my new neckline trim piece. That math worked well. Next time I’ll make the neckline trim a little wider and make the shape of the neckline opening a little more like a crew.

I’m pretty pleased with the result. This go around I made the small and the fit is so much better. Other than the narrow neckline band, it really came out pretty close to what I was imagining.

The Clean Slate Pant

Thanks to a lot of hand me downs and grandma volunteering at the thrift store, my LO is pretty well stocked for clothes. Gone is the idea that I would make most of his wardrobe, but thankfully there is opportunity to fill in some gaps. This week I worked up some trousers using the Clean Slate Pant pattern from Melly Sews and used a linen with a greenish cast and a green checked cotton from my stash to do it.

LO seems to out grow his pants in length long before the waist, so I modified the pattern just slightly to add a contrast cuff that I could fold up to start and then fold down as LO gets longer. The pattern includes a 1.5in hem allowance. I reduced that down to a 0.5in seam allowance and added a 1.5in finished cuff instead. Supper cute and a great idea. Its too bad I didn’t check the finished length on the pattern to see that they would be way too long for my little shorty. Whoops.

To add extra sweetness and to tie in the contrasting cuffs, I used the same green checks for the pockets. The project took me two and a half hours all together.

This is the second pattern from Melly Sews that I’ve used. I’d recommend her patterns for sure. She gives clear instructions and has good pictures to help you along; plus she’s an indy pattern maker.

I originally pulled out this linen to make a sorbetto dress for myself, but as pale as I am its not a good color for me to wear. I’m pretty tempted to go ahead with the dress and use the green checks as bias tape trim on the inside neckline. Wouldn’t we be such a cute mommy and son pair? I should stick to my first thought though, since he’ll outgrow these pants in a blink of an eye and I’ll still have a dress that makes me look washed out.