Georgia Top and Alyse Slim Pant featuring Simply By Ti Fabrics

Ladies and gents, today I get to share my first project as a Simply By Ti Ambassador.

You may be pleasantly surprised to see me wearing color and a bold print. I love my cold weather color pallet of all greys, but when I can’t tell one garment from the other in my drawer, it’s time to add in some color.

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A few months back I made a pair of the Alyse Tapered Leg pants from Designer Stitch* (unblogged) but they were a tad loose and I didn’t love the silhouette on me. I thought the Slim Leg version might suit me better and wanted to try again. I chose the stretch twill in burgundy from Simply by Ti for this go around. The color is so rich I knew it would make a great wardrobe piece.

For my second pair of Alyse pants I pinched out a little from the center front rise but it looks like I need to do a little more work to eliminate some wiskering. Even though I sewed the same size as before, the slims are a bit snug around my curves, but I’m going to roll with it.

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To top off my Alyse Slims, I returned to my TNT Georgia Top from Blue Dot Patterns in a chevron stripe cotton/lycra. I don’t do large prints, so I was worried about if this would overwhelm my frame. I really like how it turned out. The stripe is bold but not overwhelming, makes interesting shapes along the Georgia’s shoulder seam, and gives me a dramatic look.

Georgia close up

The outfit is just what I was hoping for.

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The Patterns: Alyse Slim Fit Pant from Designer Stitch* in size 4. A 1/2in adjustment to the length of the front rise was done. The Georgia Top from Blue Dot Patterns in size small. 2in added to the length of the arms.

The Fabric Stretch twill in burgandy has great stretch and recovery. It’s just perfect for bottoms and jackets. Chevron stripe cotton/lycra jersey has a great wieght to it to minimize curling and clinging.

As always, thanks for reading today.

You can follow me on instagram, Bloglovin, or by entering your email in the right side bar.

 

As a Simply by Ti Ambassador I receive complementary fabric from the Simply By Ti shop to use for a project in exchange for sharing it with you.

*This post may contain affiliate links, if you purchase through my links I get a small portion to help pay for my sewing hobby.

 

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Sewing with friends; Liana Jeans and Lisbon Cardigan for ITS Love Tour + Giveaway

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My friend Diane of Sewing with D and I decided to work together to sew up two items on our project list, the Lisbon Cardigan and Liana Stretch Jeans from Itch to Stitch (ITS). We had already completed our Lisbons and were about to start on our Lianas when the opportunity to participate in a blog tour in support of Kennis from Itch to Stitch came to the forefront. (See why here)

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Diane and I quickly decided to open up our plans to sew together to the entire Itch to Stitch facebook group so others could join in with us and let’s just say some sewing got done. Hoorah!

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For my stop on the ITS Love tour, I’d like to present my Lisbon and Liana outfit.

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I made up the Lisbon in an interlock knit that’s been in my stash for over five years. The Lisbon is super easy and fast to make, especially if you skip the buttons. I think I finished this project in less than 2 hours cut to finish.

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Being on a bit of a pant making stretch, the Lianas came together easily for me too. All the time I’ve invested into working out my fitting needs and having more practice making pants is really starting to pay off.

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Special thanks to Diane and all the sewists that joined us to make our Liana jeans. I’ve been needing the extra motivation lately.

Details collage

As always, please visit my fellow bloggers today.

Replicate Then Deviate, mahlicadesigns, Sewing with D, The Petite Sewist,  kreamino

These ITS Love tour sponsors have generously provided wonderful prizes for you to win. See my post here for all the details about the FIVE prize packs we have to Giveaway and how to enter.

ITS Love Sponsor Graphic final

You can follow me on instagram, Bloglovin, or by entering your email in the right side bar.

This post may contain affiliate links, if you purchase through my links I get a small portion to help pay for my sewing hobby.

Chi Town Chinos- Who Made It Best

Welcome back to Who Made It Best, a series on mahlicadesigns.

Who Made It Best is a friendly challenge where one of my blogger friends joins me in making up the same pattern to see Who Made It Best. The challenge rules are simple: 1. We agree on a pattern to use 2. sew it up to suit our personal styles 3. share it with you and ask you to vote. (Oh, and we keep what we’re up to a secret from each other)

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Sewing with Sarah has joined me in making up the Chi Town Chinos for this week’s challenge. The Chi Town Chinos are a relaxed fit short and skirt pattern with optional expansion packs for a fitted trouser or fitted longer short. Alina Sewing & Design was so kind to provide Sarah with a complimentary copy of the original pattern plus expansion pack for our challenge.  Please check out Sarah’s blog here to see what she made.

I’ve had the inspiration for todays Chi Town jean hack waiting on a Pinterest board until my pant making chops were a little more practiced and for the right boyfriend cut jean pattern to come my way. I had been waiting for the Morgan boyfriend jean pattern to go on sale, when a facebook friend pointed out that I could use my Chi Town pattern instead. Bingo!

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To get the boyfriend cut look, I added 1/2in at the hem line to both the inseam and outseam of the front and back pieces, then graded that increase down to zero just above the knee point. Next, I added width to the pocket pattern piece so I could add a couple tucks to the pocket detail.

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My final pattern modification was to shift the location of the side seams. I wanted the woven striped panel to cover part of the front and back side while still being able to encase the raw edge of my striped woven. I trimmed away 1in from the side seam of the front piece and added 1in to the side seam of the back piece.

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After my pattern alterations I was able to follow the pattern instructions like usual to construct the pants, with one additional step. Before sewing up the side seams, I basted the woven panel to the side seam edge of the back piece and also topstitched the selvage edge of the woven down.

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Details for my enjoyment: 1. Hong Kong finished side seams 2. bound waistband facing 3. label on the fly shield 4. tuck detail on the pocket.

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Blooper reel: 1. button-hole is wonky and a smidge tight 2. I made the front pockets effectively useless by shifting the side seam.

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The Pattern: Chi Town Chino Expansion pack #2 made in size 6 and altered as described.

The Fabric: Grey stretch denim(sold out)  from Finch Fabrics and what I think is a Guatemalan striped woven from inherited stash. The stretch in my denim is a big player in accomplishing the boyfriend fit.

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So, who do you think made their Chi Town’s best? Please visit Sewing with Sarah for more pictures and details on her version, then place your vote for Who Made It Best. The poll will be on both blogs, so you can see both versions before you choose your favorite. Voting open for one week and results will be posted on Instagram.

VOTE HERE

You can also take a look at the Bronte Tee, Shoreline Boatneck, Sorbetto Top,  Greenwood Tank and Cheyenne Tunic that were part of past Who Made It Best challenges.

Are you interested in a challenge? Contact me at mahlicadesigns@gmail.com to join in the WMIB fun for 2018.

You can follow me on instagram, Bloglovin, or by entering your email in the right side bar.

As always, thanks for visiting and voting today.

Sew Long Summer…hello Chi Towns and Toaster Sweater

I’m saying Sew Long Summer with two items that have been a long time coming.

I’ve needed a classic pair of trousers (that fit), since my son was born five years ago.

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Feeling pretty good about the Chi Town Chino shorts that I’ve been making, it seemed a natural choice to use the Chi Town expansion pack to make my first pair of trousers.

I’m really pleased with how they came out; though after an hour and a half into making the welt pockets I thought I’d never reach the end of them. Hang in there, the pockets come out so nicely and the rest of the pant moves along quickly.

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The Pattern: Chi Town Chino Pants (expansion pack) in Size 8.

The Fabric: Black twill from Imagine Gnats (now sold out)

For my top, I’m revisiting the Toaster Sweater. When I made it last spring (here) I honestly didn’t think I’d make another one, but it turns out the Toaster was just the pattern for showcasing my surface design idea.

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I’ve had my heart set on some tapir fabric since seeing some on etsy last year. After watching Elizabeth Made This use fabric stamping so often, I was really encouraged that I could give stamping my own fabric a try (it took about a year of thinking about it though).

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I used a Speedball kit (similar) and Jacquard fabric paint from my stash. I think I spent about thirty minutes carving the stamp and another ten stamping the fabric. After Elizabeth’s advice, I heat set the fabric paint for a good five minutes and let the fabric dry an additional week before laundering. So far so good.

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The pattern: Toaster Sweater from Sew House Seven size medium with no alterations.

The fabric: French terry in mint from Simply by Ti Fabrics – oh my goodness is this so soft and cozy.

As always, thanks for reading today. I hope you’ll visit todays bloggers in the Sew Long Summer Blog tour.

Tuesday: mahlicadesigns, My Heart Will So On, Couturious, Anne-Mari Sews, Adventures With Bubba and Bug

 

ALENA and NICKI Show Your Stoff

Welcome to day two and my stop on the Show Your Stoff blog tour. We’re featuring  Zierstoff Patterns throughout the tour and I have a discount code for you below.

I’m really excited to Show My Stoff today, but before I jump in, please be sure to stop by today’s other Show Your Stoff bloggers.

Musings of A Seamstressmahlicadesigns, Anna’s Heirloom Boutique, FABulous Home Sewn

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Now, back to me. 😉

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The ALENA top was an easy pick for me with its slight kimono sleeve and high and wide neckline, both of which work really well to deemphasize my round shoulders and balance out my pear shape.

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Finding a match for ALENA did take some thought and I finally settled on trying the NICKI capris. My one try with rtw capris in the past looked pretty awful on me;  I know there’s some magic formula for where cropped bottoms should land, but I didn’t use it. I took a chance with what felt comfortable and am super pleased that the NICKIS look good on me.

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I made the ALENA in size 40 using 3/4yd of a very lightweight jersey knit from Finch Fabrics. The fit is perfect and the construction was quick and easy. My sewing machine is no fan of tissue weight knits, so I stabilized my sleeve opening with Pellon Knit-n-Stable before folding it over to hem.

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I made the NICKI capris in size 36 using about 1 yd of a brushed poly from Sew Vagabond. Using the brushed poly was a bit of an experiment. I knew the fabric would give me some nice stretch but wasn’t sure how it would work for the pocket and fly details on the pant. It sewed up wonderfully. The faux fly and front slash pockets look neat and tidy and the stretch makes these oh so comfy. Take care pressing multiple layers though, it took a couple washings for the press mark to come out.

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I did make some of my usual adjustments for pants: adding a full seat adjusment and shortening the legs for my 5″3′ frame. I also topstitched the pockets closed and cut out the pocket bags. In the brushed poly I was getting pocket seams showing through.

A+N fun time collage

The ALENA is going to be a Tried and True pattern going forward and I have a plan in the back of my mind to do a pattern hack with the NICKI capris. In the mean time, I’m going to get good use out of this outfit for an upcoming trip to New Orleans and any other time I want to look smart this spring and summer (and secretly be really comfortable).

Thanks to the ladies at Zierstoff for supplying the patterns to enable me to make todays outfit, gving you a discount code,  and thank you for stopping by today.

Use code MahlicaDesigns30 to save 30% through the end of April.

Did you miss yesterday’s bloggers? Here’s the full tour.

Monday April 10- Anne-Mari Sews,  InspinrationTenille’s Thread, Sew Cucio, Embrace Everyday
Tuesday April 11- Musings of A Seamstressmahlicadesigns, Anna’s Heirloom Boutique, FABulous Home Sewn
Wednesday April 12-  Thread and ScissorsKaleidothought, Idle Sunshine, mahlicadesigns
Thursday April 13- Very Blissful, Sew A Piece of Joy, Zowie Zo, Nina MakesThread and Scissors.
Friday April 14- Tales of a TesterBless, by Tone; Life Sew Savory; Needles to Say, Adventures with Bubba and Bug
Saturday April 15- Musings of A Seamstress,  Anna’s Heirloom Boutique, Ronda B HandmadeGlitter in my CoffeeAnne-Mari SewsStitches by Laura; Tea, Dust and Stitches

As always, thanks for visiting the bloggers on the tour.

 

Birkin Flares

After making the Liana Jeans, I was questioning if it is worth the many hours it takes to sew your own jeans. I got some good responses to the question and decided that before I could decide that question for myself, that I really need to sew one or two more pairs. I want to see if I can cut down the sewing time and if I think I’m getting a better fit than store bought.

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Just as I was prepping to sew another pair of jeans, I won a Birkin Flare kit in the monthly drawing from IndieSew. Right away, I dove into making the Birkin Flares with some stash denim.

Birkin Flares

 

To the pattern I added a 1in full seat adjustment based on my experience with the Liana Jeans, shortened the Birkins 2in at the upper thigh adjustment line, shortened 2in at the lower leg adjustment line, and shortened 2in at the hem.

Birkin Flares

My fit muslin came out so well, that I finished them out.

Overall I’m pretty pleased with the fit of the Birkins. Next time I might make them a smidge longer, make them slimmer through the upper thigh, and look into changing the construction of the CB seam.

Birkin Flares

I was able to sew these jeans just a smidge faster and the process was easier the second time around especially since I didn’t have to do a ton of fitting to the muslin. Though I still need to tweak fit, I feel like I’m close there too. I’ve decided that I will continue to make my own jeans.

Birkin Flares

The Pattern: Birkin Flares in size 29.  1in Full Seat Adjustment, shortened 6in total. 3/8in seam allowance used at inseam and side seam.

The Fabric: Indigo denim from Fashion Fabrics Club.

Birkin styling collage

The Birkin Flares took 10.75 hours to make. I used 1 1/3yard at 54in wide denim.

Total cost $12          Fabric: $9             Pattern $0         Notions $3

Liana Jeans at the eleventh hour

I made jeans you guys!

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I’ve never made pants or jeans before, so working through the learning curve of fitting was intimidating as heck and totally frustrating at points.

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I started sewing my muslin for the Liana Stretch Jeans last December (2015), got stymied with the fitting process, and put them aside for other things. I really wanted to get past my fear of sewing pants though, so completing a pair of jeans was a big sewing goal for this year.

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I’ll spare you the fitting trials, but I will let you know that I ended up using a full butt adjustment, taking a 1in wedge out of the back thigh to remove wrinkles, taking in the waist about 1 inch, and adjusting the crotch curve. I’m sure I’ll have to do these adjustments on any pants pattern.

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Now that I’ve knocked off one of my major sewing goals, I should be jumping up and down and giddy, but really I felt burnt out by the process.

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Pattern: Liana Stretch Jeans from Itch to Stitch. Size 8. Bootcut version, but I straightened out the legs because my fabric was not wide enough. The pattern calls for 25% stretch denim which is tough to find. My muslin fabric barely had 5% stretch and was tough to work with. My final version had 15% stretch and was plenty in my mind. If you’re having trouble finding 25% stretch denim, consider using 10%-15% stretch denim instead and buy enough to make a muslin. Itch to Stitch has a super helpful sew along that expands on the instructions, walks through doing a muslin, and gives tips on distressing your denim.

Fabric: 2yds x 52in wide of 10oz denim with 15% stretch from Girl Charlee (no longer available) and a fat quarter of quilting cotton.

I created a pinterest board with jean details if you’d like some inspiration.

The Liana Stretch Jeans took me 11 hours to complete, plus several hours invested into the fitting muslin. I’m hoping that can be cut that down by a couple hours.

Total Cost: $28.60    Fabric $13        Pattern $9.60      Notions: $6

Eleven hours. That’s a big number… and that’s what has me thinking seriously about if I’ll make jeans again. I’m trying to weigh if the time investment is worth the outcome vs. if I can swallow buying RTW and it’s implications.

Keep watching this space for the decision. A pair of Birkin Jeans was on my original plan, but I’m taking a little time to decide on my course of action.

  • I’ve included my Itch to Stitch affiliate links.