ALENA and NICKI Show Your Stoff

Welcome to day two and my stop on the Show Your Stoff blog tour. We’re featuring  Zierstoff Patterns throughout the tour and I have a discount code for you below.

I’m really excited to Show My Stoff today, but before I jump in, please be sure to stop by today’s other Show Your Stoff bloggers.

Musings of A Seamstressmahlicadesigns, Anna’s Heirloom Boutique, FABulous Home Sewn

Tuesday teaser collage

Now, back to me. 😉

ALENA IG

The ALENA top was an easy pick for me with its slight kimono sleeve and high and wide neckline, both of which work really well to deemphasize my round shoulders and balance out my pear shape.

A+N 12

Finding a match for ALENA did take some thought and I finally settled on trying the NICKI capris. My one try with rtw capris in the past looked pretty awful on me;  I know there’s some magic formula for where cropped bottoms should land, but I didn’t use it. I took a chance with what felt comfortable and am super pleased that the NICKIS look good on me.

A+N 6

I made the ALENA in size 40 using 3/4yd of a very lightweight jersey knit from Finch Fabrics. The fit is perfect and the construction was quick and easy. My sewing machine is no fan of tissue weight knits, so I stabilized my sleeve opening with Pellon Knit-n-Stable before folding it over to hem.

A+N 2

I made the NICKI capris in size 36 using about 1 yd of a brushed poly from Sew Vagabond. Using the brushed poly was a bit of an experiment. I knew the fabric would give me some nice stretch but wasn’t sure how it would work for the pocket and fly details on the pant. It sewed up wonderfully. The faux fly and front slash pockets look neat and tidy and the stretch makes these oh so comfy. Take care pressing multiple layers though, it took a couple washings for the press mark to come out.

IMG_20170209_112914

I did make some of my usual adjustments for pants: adding a full seat adjusment and shortening the legs for my 5″3′ frame. I also topstitched the pockets closed and cut out the pocket bags. In the brushed poly I was getting pocket seams showing through.

A+N fun time collage

The ALENA is going to be a Tried and True pattern going forward and I have a plan in the back of my mind to do a pattern hack with the NICKI capris. In the mean time, I’m going to get good use out of this outfit for an upcoming trip to New Orleans and any other time I want to look smart this spring and summer (and secretly be really comfortable).

Thanks to the ladies at Zierstoff for supplying the patterns to enable me to make todays outfit, gving you a discount code,  and thank you for stopping by today.

Use code MahlicaDesigns30 to save 30% through the end of April.

Did you miss yesterday’s bloggers? Here’s the full tour.

Monday April 10- Anne-Mari Sews,  InspinrationTenille’s Thread, Sew Cucio, Embrace Everyday
Tuesday April 11- Musings of A Seamstressmahlicadesigns, Anna’s Heirloom Boutique, FABulous Home Sewn
Wednesday April 12-  Thread and ScissorsKaleidothought, Idle Sunshine, mahlicadesigns
Thursday April 13- Very Blissful, Sew A Piece of Joy, Zowie Zo, Nina MakesThread and Scissors.
Friday April 14- Tales of a TesterBless, by Tone; Life Sew Savory; Needles to Say, Adventures with Bubba and Bug
Saturday April 15- Musings of A Seamstress,  Anna’s Heirloom Boutique, Ronda B HandmadeGlitter in my CoffeeAnne-Mari SewsStitches by Laura; Tea, Dust and Stitches

As always, thanks for visiting the bloggers on the tour.

 

Modern Stripey Boatneck featuring Simply By Ti

I’d like to thank Marta of doguincho for posting her beautiful Miss Marlene top and fueling the flames of inspiration for today’s Stripey Boatneck top. Inspiration often languishes on my pinterest boards for lack of pattern or just the right fabric. Not this time though. I have my tnt boatneck pattern (Butterick 6084 oop) at the ready and Simply by Ti Fabrics let me pick this wonderful rayon in ivory and black stripes to feature in a blog post.

Boatneck 3

The Fabric: Rayon Spandex in ivory and black stripes from Simply by Ti. I love the drape of rayon, but it comes with the drawback of being a little clingy, a bear to sew, and I’ve been burned by instantly piling fabric. What I like most about the rayon from Simply by Ti is that it is a little heavier than the other rayon spandex blends I’ve used. The heavier rayon knit is a just a smidge easier to sew and press, is not as clingy, has the opacity I want in a light color, and still drapes nicely. I think with every rayon I’ve used before, the fibers start to lift or pill right away- very annoying. The surface of Ti’s rayon is still perfect after washing and manipulating- I’m very pleased.

Boatneck 15

The inserts are a super stretchy, shiny cotton blend that I saved from shortening some rtw pants. I thought they looked like faux leather, so I kept them for a time such as this.

Boatneck 12

A very simple pattern hack, some scrap busting, and viola; I have a modern twist on a very classic look.

Boatneck 4

The Pattern: Butterick 6084 oop. To make space for an insert, I dropped the shoulder seam point by 1/2in on the front and back bodice pieces and smoothed out the neck lines on the pattern pieces.

IMG_20170304_151222

I folded over the hems for front and back necklines stabilizing with knit-n-stable from Pellon. Next I positioned my shoulder inserts, leaving 1 inch between the front and back bodice at the shoulder and pinned in place. I then stitched my necklines through all layers and proceeded to finish the tee according to the directions.

Stripey contruction

Next time, I would sew the inserts in differently, as the neckline tends to stand up and roll forward along the inserts, but I can live with it.

 

Boatneck Feature label

As always, thanks for stopping by today, and join me next week for the Breaking Ground Blog Tour.

*Simply by Ti provided the fabric for today’s creation. These are my honest thoughts on the fabric.

Sew Your Zierstoff with the ALIZIA Tee

I made a whole outfit!

Sure, that phrase shouldn’t need an exclamation point, but since I am notorious for sewing pieces with barely a thought given to what I’m going to wear it with: I made a whole outfit!

The pieces for my casual outfit are simple enough, but I gave thought to pairing fabrics that would work together and that’s a big step in the right direction.

Firstly, I made the SVEA Pants (see details here)

Alizia top

My second piece is the ALIZIA Top.

IG square 1

The Alizia is easily constructed; but if you’ve not inserted a V shape before, I’d recommend watching the V neckband instructions from Hey June as a good guide to successfully making a smooth insertion.

Alizia V close up

So, once completed, I put on my Alizia to see my handiwork and realized I made a tunic. How on earth did I do that? I still need to go back and figure out how I made it so long. I did fit checks along the way, but I was focusing on how the sleeves and width of the bodice fit and didn’t even look at the length. Geesh.

Alizia top

Alizia top

On the positive side my Matilda leggings are a perfect match, since I used remnants from them as the accent pieces on the Alizia. This is not at all the outfit I was aiming for, but it is lemonade out of the lemon of making a way too long shirt. I do like how slimmer I look in this pairing versus the Alizia plus Svea pants combo I originally planned. Loose fitted top plus loose fitted bottoms just doesn’t do it for me.

Alizia top

So, I made an outfit! It’s not what I planned, but I’m still going to call it a success. I’m pleased with the fabrics I chose, but just need to pair patterns that balance each other better. Lesson noted. Let’s see how long it takes to sink in.

Alizia top

Are you sewing up anything from Zierstoff Patterns for the Sew Your Zierstoff contest?

There are prizes to be had, plus you get new wardrobe pieces.  (details here)

To help you along, Zierstoff Patterns are 40% off with code VALENTINE40 until 2/28/17

As always, thanks for stopping by today.

 

Georgia On My Mind. I hacked the Georgia Top again

I made my first Georgia Top for the Creative Sewing Challenge back in November and when putting together a post to inspire creativity with the Georgia pattern, I just had to put another version on my “to sew” list.

Georgia Hack by mahlicadesigns

I used the Georgia Top from Blue Dot Patterns in a size small again and modified the pattern by adding length to the sleeves and making a new cutting line for the lace piecing (tutorial below).

Georgia Hack by mahlicadesigns

I used a stable jersey knit from my stash paired with a lace purchased from Fabric Mart. I’ve not sewn with lace before, but since the lace I chose is not as fine and sheer as some lace can be, I just treated it like a knit and constructed the whole project with my serger. No problems.

Georgia Hack by mahlicadesigns

I’m just as pleased with my second Georgia, but have to laugh at myself for making two versions that have built in ventilation.

Georgia Hack by mahlicadesigns

Get my look (tutorial):

Let’s draw a new pattern line on the front pattern piece. I marked my outside shoulder at 4.25in from the neckline. I made a bust mark 4in down from CF neckline and 5in over (next time I’d make it 6in over to cover more of my chest). I marked the side 4in up from the bottom. I used a French curve to draw my new cutting line; keeping the line through most of the body vertical with a slight curve up to the shoulder and a dramatic curve at the waistline.

**I had the benefit of having a Georgia already made that I could use to determine the placement of my markings.

New Drawing lines

Cut along your new pattern line. Take a moment to label your new piece. Use your new front piece to trace your line onto the unmodified back piece. Cut your new pattern line on the back and label.

New drawing line traced

New Pieces Cut

I added 7.5in to the sleeve to make it long sleeve on me ( I’dd add more next time). I recommend you do some measuring to figure what will work for you.

Tips:

  • Label your new pattern pieces.
  • Add seam allowance to your new cut lines: I marked the cutting line on my fabric with chalk; you can trace off new pattern pieces if you want.
  • Make sure you’re ok with the amount of exposure the lace will give. I plan on wearing a cami.

A modified Georgia top should take you 2 hours to complete. Add about 20 minutes to draw new pattern lines.

Fabric $3  Pattern $0*  Total Cost $3

I received the Georgia Top Pattern free as a gift for hosting the Creative Sewing Challenge

Lane Raglan VS Easy Tee Raglan: Pattern Showdown Series

Welcome back to VS.

A series here at mahlicadesigns with the aim of pairing similar styles against each other in a friendly showdown to see which pattern better suits me, all while working through my pattern stash. (Overview here)

Today we’re comparing raglan sleeve tops.

Lane Raglan from Hey June Handmade

Lane VS. Easy Tee raglan 3 pane collage

 Easy Tee Raglan from It’s Always Autumn

The Lane Raglan has fitted sleeves, shaped bodice and a wider neck-band. The Lane comes with thumb hole cuff and a hoodie option. I made up my Lane in a rayon jersey for the bodice and a cotton jersey for the sleeves and bands. I forgot to do my normal sleeve adjustment for my skinny arms.

Lanr v easy 3

Lane v easy 4

The Easy Tee raglan is the 3/4 length raglan sleeve version of the free Easy Tee pattern. I used a cotton jersey for the bodice and a stable cotton jersey for the sleeves. Instead of making a pieced sleeve, I cut the sleeves as one piece (removing seam allowance at the top edge and cutting on the fold) and sewed in a shoulder dart where the pattern piece curved in toward the neckline. I also made the sleeves full length by adding 6in but didn’t need to slim them down like I normally do.

Lane v Easy 1

Lane VS. Easy Tee 2

Let’s compare

Instructions.

Lane Raglan: Overall very good. The instructions for the fabric origami needed to make the thumb hole takes you through it step by step, but you really need the instructions and pictures to get you there. The pictures would be more useful if the fabric used had a different color wrong side.

The Easy Tee: Basic instructions are there on the website, but you have to go back and forth from page to page from the basic tee tutorial to the tutorial for the raglan. I just skipped them. Not a fan of a pieced raglan sleeve, I modified it to one piece with a shoulder dart. Further drafting can be done to remove the dart, but I didn’t feel like it.

Fit.

Lane Raglan: Used size Large. I don’t know what I was thinking when choosing my size, I need to be using the medium. Crazy long on me too. I’m going to shorten it by about 4in. Despite my miss on the sizing, I do love my Lane. I have smallish hands, so I would alter the thumb hole cuff for a narrower fit.

The Easy Tee: Pattern comes in Large only, but fit my 35.5in bust just fine. I would need to trim it down a bit for a fitted look. Pretty good overall fit.

Style.

Lane Raglan: The banded waist and cuffs give the Lane a sporty, casual feel to me. I like where the shoulder and bodice lines meet. It just looks more balanced to me.

The Easy Tee: Good basic raglan if you don’t mind the extra sleeve seam.

Investment.

Lane Raglan: 2 hours to make, fabric $7, pattern $6.95*, about 1 1/4yd @ 60in wide

The Easy Tee: 2 hours to make, fabric $8, pattern free, about 1 1/2yd @ 60in wide

Opportunities.

Lane Raglan: The pattern has lots of built in options. Cuffs, hoodie, etc.

The Easy Tee: Basic color blocking options.

For me, the Lane is the winner. The pattern is just so much easier to use out of the box and comes with styling options.

 

Shoreline Boatneck VS Butterick 6084: Pattern Showdown Series

Welcome back to VS.

A series here at mahlicadesigns with the aim of pairing similar styles against each other in a friendly showdown to see which pattern better suits me, all while working through my pattern stash. (Overview here)

Today we looking at two boat neck tops.

Shoreline Boatneck from Blank Slate Patterns

 Shoreline VS. Butterick collage

 Butterick 6084 (OOP)

The Shoreline Boatneck full pattern comes with sleeve length options and top or dress lengths. I downloaded the free short sleeve tee version before the extended pattern was released for sale. This stripes rayon jersey knit from Girl Charlee just called for a boatneck tee in my mind. The light weight knit is more suitable for spring and summer, so I kept the sleeves short. The fabric is a bit sheer also, so I omitted the neckline facing for a folded over neck band. I used my 1/4in foot to topstitch the folded over neck band in place and it worked really well to keep my top stitching even and it also helped keep the neckband tucked under as I sewed.

Shoreline VS Butterick 1

Shoreline VS Butterick 2

Butterick 6084 is an out of print 2 Hour Fast & Easy pattern in boatneck or V neck and half or three quarters sleeve lengths. This Halston top is the inspiration for my colorblocked version. I made my color line 3in up from the marked bust point for the bodice. For the sleeves I simply added about 8in to the bottom of the 3/4 sleeve. The instructions have you sew your side seams, sew your sleeve seams, baste and gather your sleeve cap, and insert into the arm scythe. Save yourself the trouble by inserting your sleeve cap flat, then sew up your side seams and sleeves in one shot. So much easier.

Shoreline VS. Butterick 3

Shoreline VS Butterick 4

Let’s compare.

Instructions.

Shoreline: I had no instructions. I downloaded the pattern for free; the tutorial and free version were removed from the website after she released the full pattern for sale in her shop. I’ve used other Blank Slate Patterns, so you can be assured the instructions are good.

Butterick: Overall very easy excepting for the sleeve insertion being needlessly complicated. No need to gather the sleeve head and insert into the closed arm scythe. I sewed my sleeves in flat instead.

Fit.

Shoreline:  Used size small. Feels great. I may remove the smallest bit of extra width at the sleeve hem next time.

Butterick: Used size 12 Great fit overall. I need the bodice just a little longer.

Style.

Shoreline: The curved side seams and curved hemline give extra feminine look. I’d like the boat neckline a little wider across the shoulders

Butterick: The traditional, wider  boatneck shaped neckline is just what I like.

Investment.

Shoreline: 2.25 hours to make, fabric $4 pattern free, about 1yd @ 45in wide

Butterick: 2.25 hours to make, fabric $3, pattern free, about 1 yd @ 60in wide

Opportunities.

Shoreline: Pretty easy to colorblock and change sleeve lengths. Drafting into the dress version would be fun to.

Butterick: Pretty easy to colorblock and change sleeve lengths.

For me, the Butterick 6084 is the winner. I like the wider neckline and easy sleeve length options. A mash up adding the curved sideseams of the Shoreline would make the perfect tee.

Butterick 3

Aurora VS Georgia: Pattern Showdown Series

Welcome to VS.

A series here at mahlicadesigns with the aim of pairing similar styles against each other in a friendly showdown to see which pattern better suits me, all while working through my pattern stash. (Overview here)

Today we have two dolman tops.

Aurora Tee from Hey June Patterns

Auroa Tee VS. Georgia collage

 Georgia Top from Blue Dot Patterns

The Aurora Tee features a pieced dolman sleeve, slouchy body, and inserts option. I was drawn to the extra room at the upper arm that a dolman provides and the skinny lower sleeve. I fell between small and medium on the size chart, so considering the slouchy fit and 3in of pattern ease, I chose the small. I’ve never done facings on a knit item and frankly don’t see why I would on this one. I substituted the neckline facings for a neckband instead. I think the fit is spot on for the chest and arms. I’m a big fan of skinny sleeves and these are a perfect fit and length for me. I shortened the bodice just above the inserts by 2in and the top is still plenty long. Shortening it this much shifted up the point where the top starts to flare out though and I think it makes it wider around the waist than I like. If you need to shorten yours and to be a TNT for me, consider reshaping the side seams.

Aurora vs Georgia collage 2

The Georgia is a loose fitting dolman with 3/4 length sleeves and options for colorblocking, banded sleeves and waist, and fabric choices. The small was a perfect fit. I really like how the slouchy look of the top is balanced by the banded waist line. I made my Georgia as part of The Creative Sewing Challenge, so a little extra time was spent being creative with the sleeves. To be a TNT pattern for me, I just need to tweak the sleeves a little bit. Making them a couple inches longer and snugging up the cuff will keep them from riding up above my elbows or shortening them a couple inches so they hit right above the elbow.

Aurora VS. Georgia collage 1

Let’s compare.

Instructions.

Aurora: No finished measurements, but 3in ease stated. No lengthen/shorten lines. 1/4in seam allowance is a bit fiddley. Easy to read instructions.

Georgia: No print guide, but pieces numbered helps. Instructs to sew neckband and cuffs first instead of piecemeal throughout=more efficient. Easy to read instructions.

Fit.

Aurora: Had to shorten bodice by 2in. Slim fit sleeves.

Georgia: Great comfy fit and good bodice length. I need sleeves a bit longer.

Style.

Aurora: I like the dolman shape plus skinny arms. Don’t like loose fit around my waist.

Georgia: I like the fitted waistband as contrast to looser fit bodice.

Investment.

Aurora: Time; 2.5hours Cost; Yardsale fabrics $0.50  pattern $6.95* About 1yd @ 60in wide

Georgia: Time; 2.5 hours Cost; fabric $6  pattern free*  1 1/4yd @45in wide

Opportunities.

Aurora: Colorblocking of inserts and sleeves. Version with insets is a difficult shape to alter.

Georgia: Lots. See my post. Easy to alter.

For me, the Georgia is the winner. I like the fit so much better through the body and the pattern would be more easily adapted to add the skinny sleeves I like.

 

*$6.95 was my price through Up Craft Club for the Aurora Tee. I received the Georgia pattern for free as part of hosting the Creative Sewing Challenge in December of 2015.