Dana Top pattern review

I’ve been keeping it pretty simple in the sewing room this summer. Can we say Summer Break!

Working through my stash has been a motivator though. My feelings about my stash tend to swing between “I’m glad to have this resource” to “I’m never going to be relieved of this burden.” This summer I’ve been in the “stash burden” zone as stash overflow has piled up in front of my fabric shelves.

Making the Dana top and a pair of Chi Town shorts to go with, helped bust through some stash and were pretty easy projects for my lazy summer approach to sewing.

I originally planned to replace the side tie on the Dana with a cool looking buckle, but when it came to it the buckle just looked and felt too heavy. Any suggestions? I feel like something to add a little interest would be good.

 

 

The Pattern The Dana top from DG Patterns in size 10. Made without the side tie. I added two hidden snaps along the cross over to keep the top from gaping open at the bust and when I bend at the waist. If you’re looking for an easy pattern that gives you a nicely put together look, I think the Dana top is a good pattern for you.

Chi Town Chino shorts. These are my fourth pair, so nothing new to add. See my previous pairs here and here.

 

The Fabric Dana was made in a shirt weight woven that I picked up from Hancocks before they closed down. These Chi Towns are made in a cotton twill I picked up from Joann Fabrics.

Total stash busted:  1.25 yards for Dana and 1 yard for Chi Towns.

As always, thanks for reading today.

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VS Pattern Showdown: 5 Women’s Tank Patterns Go Head to Head

Welcome back to VS.

An occasional series here at mahlicadesigns with the aim of pairing similar style patterns against each other in a friendly showdown to see which pattern better suits me, all while working through my pattern stash.

 

Today I’m comparing 5 knit tank tops:

Dahlia Tank from Leala Jeyne

Durango Tank from Hey June Handmade

Greenwood Tank from Straight Stitch Designs

Idyllwild Tee from Itch to Stitch

Lago Tank from Itch to Stitch

VS. Tanks front collage 2

The Dahlia Tank is “a well-fitting tank top for use with knit fabrics in cup sizes A-E. The scoop neckline is finished with bindings, not bands, for a professional look. Hip and crop lengths.”

The Durango Tank is a “casual sleeveless shirt with a center back seam and longer flared hem… is fitted at the shoulder and bust and loose through the waist and hip for an easy fit.”

The Greenwood Tank features “a wide open neckline and two back options.”

The Idyllwild Tee is a “fitted t-shirt and dress pattern… jam-packed with options… you can literally make 42 garments with different looks!”

The Lago Tank is a relaxed fit racerback tank with slightly scooped neckline.

For all my tanks I used the 10oz cotton lycra solids from Simply By Ti. I’ve used this C/L in many projects as I love the weight and quality (here & here & here & here & here). As a Simply by Ti Ambassador I received complimentary fabrics for this post from the Simply By Ti shop to use in exchange for sharing it with you.

Now let’s compare.

VS. Tanks front collage 1

VS. Tanks front collage 2

Left to right: Dahlia in Cobalt, Durango in Eggplant, Greenwood in Tomato Red, Idyllwild in Fuchsia, Lago in Turquiose

Instructions.

Dahlia: Beginner friendly and easy to follow. I still managed to finish the neck and arm opening with a band instead of a binding by mistake.

Durango: Beginner friendly and easy to follow.

Greenwood: Beginner friendly and easy to follow. Link to video demonstrating binding technique.

Idyllwild: Beginner friendly and easy to follow. Pattern notches included to line up curved side seams and position the bands.

Lago: Beginner friendly and easy to follow. Pattern notches included to line up curved side seams and position the bands.

VS tanks back collage 1

VS tanks back collage 2

Left to right: Dahlia in Cobalt, Durango in Eggplant, Greenwood in Tomato Red, Idyllwild in Fuchsia, Lago in Turquiose

Fit.

Dahlia: Size small graded to medium at the hip per my measurements. A little bit of bunching at the shoulder seam area.

Durango:  Size 10 per my measurements. Dropped shoulder adjustment of 3/8in was critical to reduce gaping. I don’t think I stretched the binding around the armscye, enough as you can see there is still gaping going on there.

Greenwood: Size 10 per my measurements. Shortened front and back straps by 1/4in and then did a 1/4in dropped shoulder adjustment.  Shortened 1/2in at hemline.

Idyllwild: Size small graded to medium at hips. Shoulder seam sits back about 1/4in from my shoulder point. A 1/4in dropped shoulder adjustment to the front bodice should fix that. Neckband pattern piece seems a tad too long around the CF curve. It will need to be shortened 1/2in.

Lago: Size 6 graded to 8 at the hips. No shoulder adjustment needed (due to racerback shape?) Bands fit perfectly.

** For all these patterns I’ll need a sway back adjustment and to grade the back piece a little larger at the hip to account for my full seat.

VS tanks side collage 3

VS tanks side collage 2

Left to right: Dahlia in Cobalt, Durango in Eggplant, Greenwood in Tomato Red, Idyllwild in Fuchsia, Lago in Turquiose

Style.

Dahlia: Standard and cropped options. I like the gently curved hem.

Durango:  CB seam allows for easy swayback adjustment if needed and potentially easier to use up your remnants. Swing style minimizes the need to grade for wider hips. Racerback bra needed.

Greenwood: Wider scooped neckline. Straps give great coverage.

Idyllwild: Sleeveless style gives more coverage across the shoulders.

Lago: Cute racerback curves, but racerback bra needed.

VS tanks side collage 2

Left to right: Dahlia in Cobalt, Durango in Eggplant, Greenwood in Tomato Red, Idyllwild in Fuchsia, Lago in Turquiose

Investment.

Dahlia: $11  Two length options included.

Durango: $0 One view included.

Greenwood: $10-$12 Two neckline options included.

Idyllwild: $10 includes multiple sleeve, neckline, and length options.

Lago: $0 One view included.

Durango collage

For me, the Durango is the winner. I like the fit through the body and the pattern just needs a little tweaking to adjust for my swayback.

As always, thanks for reading today.

You can follow me on instagramBloglovin, or by entering your email in the right side bar.

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Coffee House Pant from Blue Dot Patterns

Diane from Blue Dot Patterns has created another pattern with a modern look that has become a closet staple for me. The Coffee House Pant is a loose fitting cropped pant with an elastic waist and “notched” pocket detail.

Being on the short side (almost 5’4″) I just stear clear of cropped pants and capris. I just can’t seem to find that magic length that looks right. So when I saw Diane’s new pattern was a cropped pant, I was happy to make up a pair as a tester, but didn’t imagine I’d end up with something that would actually work for me.

But looky here:

.

One of the chararteristics that appeals to me is that while these are so very comfortable to wear, they look neat and classic.

The Pattern: Coffee House Pant from Blue Dot Patterns in size 8 with no alterations.

The Coffee House Pant is on sale until Jan 14th to celebrate it’s release.

As with all the other Blue Dot patterns that I’ve made, the pattern is well drafted and the instructions professional and easy to follow. I think you would be happy with any of her patterns.

The Fabric: A natural woven that my mother picked up from an estate sale. The original sale tag was dated 1954. It drapes wonderfully and doesn’t wrinkle all that much.

As always, thanks for reading today.

You can follow me on instagram, Bloglovin, or by entering your email in the right side bar.

Ella Cami & Shortie set from Designer Stitch

I got to test out* the new Ella Cami set from Designer Stitch last week and now I feel complete, in the summer pj department : )

I love the loose flowing pieces to keep me cool and feel pretty on trend with the ruffled cami.

You can also style the cami as a summer top. It works perfectly with my Chi Town chino shorts.

The Pattern and my alterations: The Ella Cami set from Designer Stitch includes a cami with ruffled band and a flowing bottom in short or pant length. I made two alterations to the pattern. I’m not a big ruffle person, so I took a total of 10 inches out of the length (front and back) of the ruffle band. I still think there’s plenty of ruffle here. On the shorties I added my usual 1 inch Full Seat Adjustment (FSA) and lowered the rise (front & back) by 3 inches making them a low rise short. If lowering your rise, be sure to check that you are leaving enough room for the elastic casing above the top of your pockets. My casing landed just above the pockets and I might consider lowering it another 3/8in next time so I can secure my pocket bags under the casing seam to keep them in place.

The Fabric I found this delightful Mini Floral rayon woven at Joann Fabrics amongst a ton of polyester in their Silky category. I used about 2 yards for my cami and shorties set.

 

The Ella Cami set and all Designer Stitch patterns are on sale for a limited time. Now’s the time to grab them up.

 

As always, thanks for reading today.

You can follow me on instagramBloglovin, or by entering your email in the right side bar.

 

This post may contain affiliate links, if you purchase through my links I get a small portion to help pay for my sewing hobby.

*I received a free copy of the Ella pattern in exchange for my work reviewing the pattern instructions before release. These are my straight up thoughts on the pattern.

Paro Cardigan on mahlicadesigns

I have a quick review this week of the new Paro Cardigan from Itch to Stitch Designs.

Kennis’ patterns are well drafted and well written, so no worries there. All the details you need like lengthen/shorten lines and clear markings for the pleats, but nothing confusing.

The Pattern: The Paro Cardigan from Itch to Stitch in size 4 with no alterations. The Paro is a longer cut cardigan, but if you want to shorten it take care to keep the proportions correct and avoid getting a peplum -unless that’s what you want. My friend Crystal from Sewing Vortex is planning a coatigan version- how cool.

I have super skinny arms and always have to slim down my sleeves, but not with the Paro. If you have more shapely arms you may need to adjust them.

The Fabric: I used 2 yards of an abstract chevron ponte from Girl Charlee and black Maggie London ponte. Both stash fabrics! I’d recommend using more stable knits for the design – some of the testers used sweater knits and had to adjust for the extra stretch. I thought the pleat details also looked better in the stable knits versions.

You may purchase the Paro Cardigan pattern from Itch to Stitch on sale for a limited time.

The Paro cardigan should take you about 4 hours cut to finish.

Total cost: $9   Fabric $9      Pattern $0*

 

*I received the pattern free for being a pattern tester. I’ve included my Itch to Stitch affiliate links.

Birkin Flares

After making the Liana Jeans, I was questioning if it is worth the many hours it takes to sew your own jeans. I got some good responses to the question and decided that before I could decide that question for myself, that I really need to sew one or two more pairs. I want to see if I can cut down the sewing time and if I think I’m getting a better fit than store bought.

Just as I was prepping to sew another pair of jeans, I won a Birkin Flare kit in the monthly drawing from IndieSew. Right away, I dove into making the Birkin Flares with some stash denim.

 

To the pattern I added a 1in full seat adjustment based on my experience with the Liana Jeans, shortened the Birkins 2in at the upper thigh adjustment line, shortened 2in at the lower leg adjustment line, and shortened 2in at the hem.

My fit muslin came out so well, that I finished them out.

Overall I’m pretty pleased with the fit of the Birkins. Next time I might make them a smidge longer, make them slimmer through the upper thigh, and look into changing the construction of the CB seam.

I was able to sew these jeans just a smidge faster and the process was easier the second time around especially since I didn’t have to do a ton of fitting to the muslin. Though I still need to tweak fit, I feel like I’m close there too. I’ve decided that I will continue to make my own jeans.

The Pattern: Birkin Flares in size 29.  1in Full Seat Adjustment, shortened 6in total. 3/8in seam allowance used at inseam and side seam.

The Fabric: Indigo denim from Fashion Fabrics Club.

The Birkin Flares took 10.75 hours to make. I used 1 1/3yard at 54in wide denim.

Total cost $12          Fabric: $9             Pattern $0         Notions $3

Melissa VS Julia: Pattern Showdown for Cardigan Roundup

Today I’m joining Sewing with Ti in her Cardigan Round Up to talk about my favorite cardigan pattern. I thought I’d share about my favorite by doing a pattern comparison, So…

Welcome back to VS.

A theme here at mahlicadesigns with the aim of pairing similar style patterns against each other in a friendly showdown to see which pattern better suits me, all while working through my pattern stash.

Melissa Cardigan from Zierstoff Patterns

Melissa v Julia main collage

 Julia Cardigan from Mouse House Creations

Melissa vs Julia 1 collage

The Melissa Cardigan features a pieced dolman sleeve, fully faced rounded collar, and roomy fit.

The Julia offers cap, 3/4, and full length set in sleeves, options for fully faced or one piece rounded collar, and casual fit.

Melissa vs Julia 3 collage

Let’s compare.

Instructions.

Melissa: Size chart is on website, but not in the instructions. Print/scale checks are throughout the pattern so you can always be sure the pattern printed correctly. The size lines are in color, so if printing in black & white it can be tough when the lines are tight together. The instructions for garment construction are clear and easy to follow.

Julia:  Instructions for construction are clear and easy to follow. The pattern has a few pattern markings to help line up pieces and are useful for stripe/pattern matching.

Fit.

Melissa: Great overall fit. I shortened the sleeves 3in, a typical adjustment for me.

Julia: Runs small. I made one size up and ended up with the right fit. It feels tight to me at the back neck, I think the back neckline needs to be scooped out a little. Not a fan of how the fabric puddles at my hip.

Style.

Melissa: The loose fit open front cardigan style is very on trend, but dolman sleeves are not for everyone.

Julia: The open front cardigan style is very on trend. Long and short sleeve options are included.

Investment.

Melissa: Time; 2.5 hours   Cost; Fabrics $10    Pattern $6   About 2yd @ 60in wide

Julia: Time; 2.75 hours   Cost; Fabrics $5.50    Pattern $6.95*   About 2.5yd @ 60in wide

Opportunities.

Melissa: Colorblocking of collar and sleeves. Variety of fabrics can be used.

Julia: Colorblocking of collar and sleeve length options. Need fabrics with stretch.

Melissa vs Julia 2 collage

For me, the Melissa is the winner. The Melissa is an overall better fitting pattern, has my favorite sleeve style, a better fitting collar, and longer length.

*$6.95 was my price through Up Craft Club for the Julia Cardigan. I received the Melissa pattern for free from Zierstoff Patterns.

Back to School Blog Tour with mahlicadesigns

O.K. my little guy just started preschool a couple months ago, so he’s not technically going Back to School this fall, but boy does he need some nice looking fall clothes for preschool and church.

I’m getting started sewing for this guy by using some untouched patterns from my stash.The first pattern to try out are the Coastal Cargos, a casual pant made a little dressier when made in a corduroy.

The Pattern: Blank Slate Patterns are designed so that you can easily add or remove options to make the clothing you want. I found this to be true in the Coastal Cargos too. I eliminated the front pockets, belt loops, side stripe, and button tab used to secure a rolled up cuff. These are options my little guy won’t need for now. The smaller sizes of the pattern include elastic in the back portion of the waistband which is a nice feature.

The Fabric: A light to mid weight stretch corduroy. The corduroy is a little heavier than the recommended fabrics, but worked just fine with a little extra care needed for turning and sewing through the thickness of the pocket flaps.

The Response: I really like how they came out and the pattern is super cute. The little guy is less than enthusiastic. This was our conversation the first time he tried them on:

Me: Do you want to try on the pants I just made you.
Little Guy: Definitely not.
A few moments later…pants are on.
Me: Aren’t these nice, do you like them?
Little Guy: I’m done

He was only just slightly more cooperative for taking photos. Well, that’s kids for you. I’ll keep trying.

In the meantime, you should enter today’s Giveaway for a PDF pattern from Love Notions and a PDF pattern from Sunday Girl Designs. Check back with our hosts LuLu & Celeste or Sprouting Jube Jube for daily giveaways.

Also consider entering the Sew Along, and visit my fellow bloggers. We have a variety of Back to School makes to inspire you.

Call Ajaire * The Wholesome Mama * Sew and Tell Project * BLAVERRY * DIY Crush * Phat Quarters * Mahlica Designs * Handmade Boy * Kaleidothought * The Berry Bunch * Filles A Maman * Sprouting JubeJube * Sew Happily Ever After * Tales of a Tester * 5 out of 4 Patterns * The Crafting Fiend * Create 3.5 * Sew Sophie Lyn * Sweeter Than Cupcakes * Wining Wife * Paisley Roots * The Eli Monster * Cindy Parrett Blog * Sew Starly * Élégantine! * Gracious Threads * Lulu & Celeste * Sewing By Ti * Amazing Adventures with Bubba and Bug * Simple Life Pattern Co. Blog * Inspinration * Mama You Can Make it For Me * Moon Star

Chi-Town Chinos #SewingDare by mahlicadesigns

A couple months back I took a #SewingDare from Gillian at Crafting A Rainbow. Gillian’s challenge: “I love your mustard skirt, and how it stands out against the neutrals in your wardrobe… so I dare you to make something else bright that can mix and match into your wardrobe!”

My stash is almost all neutrals, so I  grabbed the most colorful fabric in there and started brainstorming. Generally I’m not a florals person, but this cotton twill has moved between my stash and my giveaway pile so many times it’s a little silly. The challenge and the recently released Chi-Town Chinos was a good push to getting cutting.

I really like the chino style of the Chi-Towns and have put the skirt version on my Sew Everything list. I definitely want more of these shorts, but that will have to wait for Spring sewing.

The Pattern: Chi-Town Chinos shorts from Alina Design Co. in size 10 based on my measurements. The pattern includes a shorts or skirt version and four options for back pockets.

I liked that you get all the pattern pieces ready right at the start and that the single piece front pocket is nicely finished with facings and french seams. There is a lot of attention to detail that makes everything about the shorts a step above.

The pattern and instructions have fitting built in, which is great for your first time sewing the pattern. The back pattern piece includes an extension that makes it easy to fit the waist and in my case a fuller seat. The instructions walk you through basting and fitting the back piece before you do your final sew.

I found I did not need the extension or need to do a full butt adjustment in my size, but I did have a lot of excess fabric in the back of the legs below my seat. I think this is an indicator that I need to size down and do a full butt adjustment for the smaller size.  I ended up removing 1 in at the inseam and side seam of the back piece only. I like the fit I have now, so I probably won’t experiment with going down a size.

Next time I will also adjust the front crotch curve. I find it scoops out just a little too much for me.

I’m pretty impressed that most of the fitting issues were worked out on the first try by following the pattern instructions.

The fabric: One yard of Cone Mills cotton twill and about a FQ of lightweight cotton both from inherited stash.

I’m pleased that the shorts do work with several tops, but honestly the jury is still out on this print. I’ll need to give these some wearing around before I decide if they are “me” or if they will be downgraded to around the house shorts.

Chi Towns feature banner

The Chi-Town Chino shorts took me about 5 hours to complete, including fitting and adjustments. I’m hoping to cut that down to 3.5 hours next time.

Total Cost: $13.75    Fabric $0 (inherited stash)        Pattern $12      Notions: $1.75

Sarah Top and Dress – Pattern Review

On the Cutting Floor is putting out some really interesting patterns, with unique details that take them above and beyond the many basics you see out there in the Indie pattern world. I have many of them on my list to make.

I started with the Sarah Top and Dress Pattern** Those origami-like folds, oh yeah, so very cool. I had the perfect color ponte in my stash to fit into my Core Wardrobe too.

The pattern comes with lots of options, 24 all together, so you need to read the “How to Print” instructions to get the pattern pieces you need.

Sarah Top and Dress technical drawing

The easily understandable instructions walk you through how to complete the many options and they’re organized so there’s no confusion. Sewing the pleated panel was a breeze because of good markings and clear instructions.

Item of note: The curve from waistline to hip is not a gentle one. This is great for pear shapes like me, but if you’re a rectangle or inverted triangle shape you might want to check that.

My alterations, which I have to do to most patterns. A drop shoulder adjustment of 3/8in. Shortened 3in at hem line, I had to eliminate the bottom pleat to make it look right. Shortened the sleeve by 3in to make it a length I like.

Next time, I’ll use a binding on the neckline instead of folding over and topstitching. I prefer a binding or facing.

I had a few fit issues with the test version of the pattern. (I don’t see adjustments for these in the final version)

1. I got a lot of gaping at the center front neckline of my muslin (not shown). I ended up removing two 1/2in wedges from the neckline to compensate.

2. I found the neckline sat high up on my neck at the shoulder line. I ended up removing 1in here.

3. I found the front piece 1/2in narrower than the back piece in the same size. I used a size 10 front piece and size 8 back piece in my final version.

The fabric: One yard of a nice ponte de roma from Finch Fabrics. (sold out)

The Pattern: Sarah Top and Dress in size 8/10. Pleated front, short sleeve options.

The Sarah Top & Dress is 50% off until Friday to celebrate the pattern release, so hop on that now.

The pleated front, short sleeve version of the Sarah Top should take you about 1.5 hours to complete.

Total Cost: $2          Fabric $2           Pattern $ 0- Free as a pattern tester

 

**Affiliate link, meaning your purchase provides me a modicum of compensation to fuel my hobby.

Ally Skirt from Blue Dot Patterns

Frankly, I was very happy to let the current “denim everything” trend pass on by me. If I followed the trend back in middle school, I just don’t want anything to do with it.

And yet once again, my mind was changed by a pattern. The Ally Skirt is a six gore skirt with contoured waistband, length options, flap, pocket option, and top stitching.

Ally skirt on mahlcadesigns

Two ideas struck immediately when looking at the Ally; denim with copper snaps and yellow top stitching or corduroy in a camel/caramel color for that 70s feel. So very on trend right now. The new Ally Skirt just called out to be made up in denim.

I tested the Ally Skirt pattern for Blue Dot Patterns. Blue Dot Patterns may sound familiar. I’ve made up two Georgia‘s (here and here), hosted the Creative Sewing Challenge last fall, and one of my ideas for the Margo Blouse is on my sewing table now.

Ally Skirt by mahlicadesigns

I used a lightweight 7 oz. denim from my stash to make up my Ally in a size medium. With some pattern piece Tetris and using an extremely tight lay out, I was able to get my skirt cut out of 5/8 yard x 60in wide. If you have a directional print, fabric with nap, or narrower fabric; you’ll need more.

Ally Skirt by mahlicadesigns

Why I recommend the pattern: 1. Oh my is it so easy. All the pieces could get confusing, but the way they’re labeled and notched makes it no problem. 2. Diane, the pattern designer, even includes fitting as part of the pattern directions. Instead of a 1/2in seam allowance at the sides, I used a 5/8in seam allowance: Fitting Done! 3. A contoured waist band. I’m a pear shape so that’s perfect for me. 4. The style is classic and very on trend right now too.

Get yours! Get your Ally pattern for 30% off, for a limited time, directly from Blue Dot Patterns or from UpCraft Club.

Ally Skirt by mahlicadesigns

I chose snaps that were bigger than the recommended button size, so I skipped the top stitching at the outer edge of the button placket.

Ally Skirt by mahlicadesigns

Hey, I’m pretty proud of my top stitching here.

Ally Skirt by mahlicadesigns

That pocket flap is purely decor. I don’t need pockets in everything, so I’m cool with it. If you are in the pockets on everything camp there’s a pocket option for you.

I styled the Ally skirt with a cowl neck tee; with my banded Kirsten Kimono tee and RTW jacket; and a RTW sweater.

Ally Styling collage

The Ally should take you about 3.75 hours to complete. In a size medium with creative layout I used 5/8 yard of fabric.

Total cost: $6.50           Fabric: $3      Notions: $3.50       Pattern: $0*

 

*I received the Ally Pattern for free as a tester. Do I have to explain that these are my own thoughts about the pattern? They are.

Fancy Tiger One Hour Top for Diving into Dolmans blog tour

Dive Into Dolmans 3

One Hour Top by mahlicadesigns

Today I’m sharing the One Hour Top from Fancy Tiger Crafts as part of the Diving into Dolmans blog tour hosted by Sewing By Ti. Ti has put together bloggers of all shapes to show how this style top can work for every body shape.

Sewing by Ti as an Inverted Triangle
The Creative Counselor as an hourglass/small pear
Made By Melli as an apple
Sew Sophie Lynn as a rectangle.

Guest bloggers:
Dos Natural Sistas (spoon)
Rebel and Malice (pear)
Sew Far North (apple)
Mahlica Designs (pear)
Lulu and Celeste (inverted triangle)
Adventures with Bubba and Bug (hourglass)

I just love my dolman style Georgia Tops (here and here), so it was only natural that I would want to try another pattern and expand my dolman love. Unfortunately, I did not find true love a second time. I think we’re more of a “like-like” status.

Fancy Tiger One Hour Top by mahlicadesigns

Fancy Tiger One Hour Top by mahlicadesigns

The blandly named One Hour Top is a loose fitting top with a 3/4 length dolman sleeve. True to it’s name, the top goes together very quickly. The instructions are easy and straight forward to follow. I did change one step. Instead of folding over the neckline by 1/2in and stitching down as instructed, I used a clean finish binding. Even with the extra time needed for the neater neckline finish, I still finished in under an hour.

Fancy Tiger Dolman by mahlicadesigns

I found this really cool ponte knit on the clearance rack at Hancock Fabrics, but it was a bit shy of the needed length, so I added a color block band at the bottom to make it a decent length on me. As is usual for me, I had to shorten the sleeves just a bit to hit at the right place.

Fancy Tiger One Hour Top by mahlicadesigns

Fancy Tiger One Hour Top by mahlicadesigns

I was worried that a dolman without a fitted band at the bottom would look really slouchy, but that turned out just fine. The overall fit is just not love for me, as roomy as this is supposed to be, I’m getting drag lines down the front. I often need a FBA, but honestly didn’t think I would need it with as much ease as the pattern has built in. I’ll pass on making this one again. You may have better luck.

Fancy Tiger One Hour Top by mahlicadesigns

Fancy Tiger One Hour Top by mahlicadesigns

Some things to consider about the One Hour Top:

Sizes XS/S to XL/XXL (32/34 to 42/45)
Printable pattern pages/copy shop version 18 (no copy shop)
Skill Level Beginner
Measurements for Rectangle Pieces NA
Line Drawings Yes
Size made XS/S
Options chosen NA
Fabric Requirement for your size 1 ½ (1 ¾ stated in pattern)
Measurement Chart Bust Waist Hip
Cutting Instructions Yes
Pattern Printing Layout Yes
Cutting Layout Yes
Suggested Fabrics Medium weight knits
Layer Printing Option No
Neck Line Options No
Sleeve Options No
Hem Options No
Color Blocking No
Seam Allowance ½ inch
Hem Allowance ½ inch
Separate add-on pack No
Fit Loose
Easy to read instructions Yes
Drawing or photograph instructions Drawings

 

Zamora Blouse from Itch to Stitch by mahlicadesigns

I had the opportunity to test the newly released Zamora blouse pattern from Itch to Stitch. The Zamora is a buttoned front, deep V neck with a tie bow. The Zamora is a modern version of a very classic look.

Zamora

I liked the combination of the tucks on the front, the tie, and the slightly loose blousing. Making the Zamora was a good way to replace the classic blouses in my wardrobe that no longer fit.

Zamora Blouse detail

Zamora Blouse

Zamora blouse

Because this is my test version I made very few alterations. I made a dropped shoulder adjustment of 1/4in and graded the back piece from waist to hem increasing by 1/2in in width. This is the bracelet length sleeve option, which is long on me but actually falls at a length I like.

Zamora blouse

I’m not satisfied with how the back bunches up above the waist line. Part of this is due to my need to do a sway back adjustment and possibly grade wider at the hips, but I think some of this is the pattern design. It looks better tucked in, which is how I will wear the blouse. Several other testers removed the back darts all together and I may go back and remove them too. I think that will make the back look so much better and maybe help with a drag line on the front.

This is a size 4 with D cup, made up in a cotton/poly broadcloth. I ended up using 1 3/4yd @44in wide. The techniques in the pattern are not difficult, but it does take some time to complete because of the pintucks and waist darts.

Zamora blouse pin tucks

The Zamora is one of four new pattern releases from Itch to Stitch this week. Itch to Stitch has put all of her patterns on sale this week too.

 

The Zamora could take you 7 hours to complete.

Fabric $4  Pattern $ 0*  Total cost $4

*I received the pattern for free as a tester.

 

Matilda VS. Sloan leggings: Pattern Showdown Series

Welcome back to VS.

A series here at mahlicadesigns with the aim of pairing similar styles against each other in a friendly showdown to see which pattern better suits me, all while working through my pattern stash. (Overview here)

Today we’re switching gears over to leggings.

 

 Sloan leggings from Hey June Handmade

Sloan VS. Matilda 3 square collage

Matilda leggings from Spit Up & Stilettos (download)**

Sloan VS Matilda 1

The Sloan leggings (view B) are a contoured legging with a shaped waistband. Sizing options are included for petite, regular, and tall in addition to the regular, capri and 3/4 length style lines. I used ponte knits with just a little stretch, so I chose my size based on my hip measurement.  The pieced waistband gave me the opportunity to colorblock my front waistband to use up some smaller scraps. I have a few fitting adjustments I’d make to remove a little poofiness from the front rise and a little bit of sag below my bottom. I’m pretty sure that using the suggested stretchy fabrics with recommended smaller size may eliminate these adjustments.

Sloan VS. Matilda 3

The Matilda Leggings are a basic silhouette with rectangular waistband. The rise on these is really short, so I added 1in front and back and would add another 1/2in to the back next time. Only two pattern pieces makes it quick to cut out and quick to sew; but only one piece for the body makes it more challenging to adjust the fit. I probably need to do a full bottom adjustment, but will only be able to adjust the rise to accommodate.  The pattern also seems to be proportioned for a uncurvy shape. I used a standard jersey knit. (See a more thorough review here).

Sloan V Matilda 2

Now let’s compare

Instructions.

Sloan: Thorough and easy to understand instructions with good diagrams. Good tips on picking your correct size and fabrics. I appreciated the tip on adding elastic to the waistband.

Matilda: Straight forward and easy instructions with pictures. The sample in the pictures are in black fabric. Not very helpful, but even a novice sewer can do these with out the pictures.

 

Fit.

Sloan: Size Large based on hip measurement and fabric with little stretch. Other than the fitting adjustments mentioned above, the fit is comfortable and nicely shaped. I may make the waist band shorter next time. It just seams a little out of proportion on me.

Matilda: Size medium. I found them to run a tad small at the hip and not as fitted from the knee down. The rectangular waistband feels a little loose. I would recommend fabrics with 25-50% stretch and good recovery.

Style.

Sloan: Good seam lines, nice shaping, multiple lengths, and color mixing options. A modern look ideal for casual dressing or athletic wear.

Matilda: Good basic legging.

Investment.

Sloan: 1.75 hours to make, fabric $6, pattern $6.95*, about 1.5yd @ 60in wide

Matilda:  1 hour to make, fabric $8, pattern free, about 1yd @ 60in wide

Opportunities.

Sloan: Color blocking galore, but I really wouldn’t want to mess around with the pattern’s design lines

Matilda: Significant time investment to adjust fit and pattern hack.

.

For me, the Sloan is the winner. They just feel comfortable everywhere, the pattern is well designed and you can do so much with it.

Sloan 7

*$6.95 was my price through Up Craft Club for the Sloan leggings.

**Spit Up and Stilettos has rebranded to Sadi & Sam; a kids pattern company. Sadly for us, all their free womans patterns have disappeared from the internet. Sadi & Sam have given me permission to share the Matilda pattern with you. Download Here.

Lane Raglan VS Easy Tee Raglan: Pattern Showdown Series

Welcome back to VS.

A series here at mahlicadesigns with the aim of pairing similar styles against each other in a friendly showdown to see which pattern better suits me, all while working through my pattern stash. (Overview here)

Today we’re comparing raglan sleeve tops.

Lane Raglan from Hey June Handmade

Lane VS. Easy Tee raglan 3 pane collage

 Easy Tee Raglan from It’s Always Autumn

The Lane Raglan has fitted sleeves, shaped bodice and a wider neck-band. The Lane comes with thumb hole cuff and a hoodie option. I made up my Lane in a rayon jersey for the bodice and a cotton jersey for the sleeves and bands. I forgot to do my normal sleeve adjustment for my skinny arms.

Lanr v easy 3

Lane v easy 4

The Easy Tee raglan is the 3/4 length raglan sleeve version of the free Easy Tee pattern. I used a cotton jersey for the bodice and a stable cotton jersey for the sleeves. Instead of making a pieced sleeve, I cut the sleeves as one piece (removing seam allowance at the top edge and cutting on the fold) and sewed in a shoulder dart where the pattern piece curved in toward the neckline. I also made the sleeves full length by adding 6in but didn’t need to slim them down like I normally do.

Lane v Easy 1

Lane VS. Easy Tee 2

Let’s compare

Instructions.

Lane Raglan: Overall very good. The instructions for the fabric origami needed to make the thumb hole takes you through it step by step, but you really need the instructions and pictures to get you there. The pictures would be more useful if the fabric used had a different color wrong side.

The Easy Tee: Basic instructions are there on the website, but you have to go back and forth from page to page from the basic tee tutorial to the tutorial for the raglan. I just skipped them. Not a fan of a pieced raglan sleeve, I modified it to one piece with a shoulder dart. Further drafting can be done to remove the dart, but I didn’t feel like it.

Fit.

Lane Raglan: Used size Large. I don’t know what I was thinking when choosing my size, I need to be using the medium. Crazy long on me too. I’m going to shorten it by about 4in. Despite my miss on the sizing, I do love my Lane. I have smallish hands, so I would alter the thumb hole cuff for a narrower fit.

The Easy Tee: Pattern comes in Large only, but fit my 35.5in bust just fine. I would need to trim it down a bit for a fitted look. Pretty good overall fit.

Style.

Lane Raglan: The banded waist and cuffs give the Lane a sporty, casual feel to me. I like where the shoulder and bodice lines meet. It just looks more balanced to me.

The Easy Tee: Good basic raglan if you don’t mind the extra sleeve seam.

Investment.

Lane Raglan: 2 hours to make, fabric $7, pattern $6.95*, about 1 1/4yd @ 60in wide

The Easy Tee: 2 hours to make, fabric $8, pattern free, about 1 1/2yd @ 60in wide

Opportunities.

Lane Raglan: The pattern has lots of built in options. Cuffs, hoodie, etc.

The Easy Tee: Basic color blocking options.

For me, the Lane is the winner. The pattern is just so much easier to use out of the box and comes with styling options.

 

Shoreline Boatneck VS Butterick 6084: Pattern Showdown Series

Welcome back to VS.

A series here at mahlicadesigns with the aim of pairing similar styles against each other in a friendly showdown to see which pattern better suits me, all while working through my pattern stash. (Overview here)

Today we looking at two boat neck tops.

Shoreline Boatneck from Blank Slate Patterns

 Shoreline VS. Butterick collage

 Butterick 6084 (OOP)

The Shoreline Boatneck full pattern comes with sleeve length options and top or dress lengths. I downloaded the free short sleeve tee version before the extended pattern was released for sale. This stripes rayon jersey knit from Girl Charlee just called for a boatneck tee in my mind. The light weight knit is more suitable for spring and summer, so I kept the sleeves short. The fabric is a bit sheer also, so I omitted the neckline facing for a folded over neck band. I used my 1/4in foot to topstitch the folded over neck band in place and it worked really well to keep my top stitching even and it also helped keep the neckband tucked under as I sewed.

Shoreline VS Butterick 1

Shoreline VS Butterick 2

Butterick 6084 is an out of print 2 Hour Fast & Easy pattern in boatneck or V neck and half or three quarters sleeve lengths. This Halston top is the inspiration for my colorblocked version. I made my color line 3in up from the marked bust point for the bodice. For the sleeves I simply added about 8in to the bottom of the 3/4 sleeve. The instructions have you sew your side seams, sew your sleeve seams, baste and gather your sleeve cap, and insert into the arm scythe. Save yourself the trouble by inserting your sleeve cap flat, then sew up your side seams and sleeves in one shot. So much easier.

Shoreline VS. Butterick 3

Shoreline VS Butterick 4

Let’s compare.

Instructions.

Shoreline: I had no instructions. I downloaded the pattern for free; the tutorial and free version were removed from the website after she released the full pattern for sale in her shop. I’ve used other Blank Slate Patterns, so you can be assured the instructions are good.

Butterick: Overall very easy excepting for the sleeve insertion being needlessly complicated. No need to gather the sleeve head and insert into the closed arm scythe. I sewed my sleeves in flat instead.

Fit.

Shoreline:  Used size small. Feels great. I may remove the smallest bit of extra width at the sleeve hem next time.

Butterick: Used size 12 Great fit overall. I need the bodice just a little longer.

Style.

Shoreline: The curved side seams and curved hemline give extra feminine look. I’d like the boat neckline a little wider across the shoulders

Butterick: The traditional, wider  boatneck shaped neckline is just what I like.

Investment.

Shoreline: 2.25 hours to make, fabric $4 pattern free, about 1yd @ 45in wide

Butterick: 2.25 hours to make, fabric $3, pattern free, about 1 yd @ 60in wide

Opportunities.

Shoreline: Pretty easy to colorblock and change sleeve lengths. Drafting into the dress version would be fun to.

Butterick: Pretty easy to colorblock and change sleeve lengths.

For me, the Butterick 6084 is the winner. I like the wider neckline and easy sleeve length options. A mash up adding the curved sideseams of the Shoreline would make the perfect tee.

Butterick 3

Aurora VS Georgia: Pattern Showdown Series

Welcome to VS.

A series here at mahlicadesigns with the aim of pairing similar styles against each other in a friendly showdown to see which pattern better suits me, all while working through my pattern stash. (Overview here)

Today we have two dolman tops.

Aurora Tee from Hey June Patterns

Auroa Tee VS. Georgia collage

 Georgia Top from Blue Dot Patterns

The Aurora Tee features a pieced dolman sleeve, slouchy body, and inserts option. I was drawn to the extra room at the upper arm that a dolman provides and the skinny lower sleeve. I fell between small and medium on the size chart, so considering the slouchy fit and 3in of pattern ease, I chose the small. I’ve never done facings on a knit item and frankly don’t see why I would on this one. I substituted the neckline facings for a neckband instead. I think the fit is spot on for the chest and arms. I’m a big fan of skinny sleeves and these are a perfect fit and length for me. I shortened the bodice just above the inserts by 2in and the top is still plenty long. Shortening it this much shifted up the point where the top starts to flare out though and I think it makes it wider around the waist than I like. If you need to shorten yours and to be a TNT for me, consider reshaping the side seams.

Aurora vs Georgia collage 2

The Georgia is a loose fitting dolman with 3/4 length sleeves and options for colorblocking, banded sleeves and waist, and fabric choices. The small was a perfect fit. I really like how the slouchy look of the top is balanced by the banded waist line. I made my Georgia as part of The Creative Sewing Challenge, so a little extra time was spent being creative with the sleeves. To be a TNT pattern for me, I just need to tweak the sleeves a little bit. Making them a couple inches longer and snugging up the cuff will keep them from riding up above my elbows or shortening them a couple inches so they hit right above the elbow.

Aurora VS. Georgia collage 1

Let’s compare.

Instructions.

Aurora: No finished measurements, but 3in ease stated. No lengthen/shorten lines. 1/4in seam allowance is a bit fiddley. Easy to read instructions.

Georgia: No print guide, but pieces numbered helps. Instructs to sew neckband and cuffs first instead of piecemeal throughout=more efficient. Easy to read instructions.

Fit.

Aurora: Had to shorten bodice by 2in. Slim fit sleeves.

Georgia: Great comfy fit and good bodice length. I need sleeves a bit longer.

Style.

Aurora: I like the dolman shape plus skinny arms. Don’t like loose fit around my waist.

Georgia: I like the fitted waistband as contrast to looser fit bodice.

Investment.

Aurora: Time; 2.5hours Cost; Yardsale fabrics $0.50  pattern $6.95* About 1yd @ 60in wide

Georgia: Time; 2.5 hours Cost; fabric $6  pattern free*  1 1/4yd @45in wide

Opportunities.

Aurora: Colorblocking of inserts and sleeves. Version with insets is a difficult shape to alter.

Georgia: Lots. See my post. Easy to alter.

For me, the Georgia is the winner. I like the fit so much better through the body and the pattern would be more easily adapted to add the skinny sleeves I like.

 

*$6.95 was my price through Up Craft Club for the Aurora Tee. I received the Georgia pattern for free as part of hosting the Creative Sewing Challenge in December of 2015.

Week 3 of the Creative Sewing Challenge with Blue Dot Patterns + Giveaway

 

ChallengeButton Primary

Diane (gatorbunnysews) of Blue Dot Patterns and I asked sewists to let their creativity flow with their choice of the Blue Dot Patterns. Be sure to click through to see the details of these projects. Then be sure to visit Blue Dot Patterns to take advantage of the 40% off sale (for a limited time).

Melissa (that’s me) from mahlicadesigns added cut outs along the shoulder to make my Georgia a little edgy. I have a quick tutorial if you want to hack the Georgia like I did. I feel pretty cool with my Georgia and my leather look skinny pants.

Georgia Top

 

Cindy from CindyParrett.com modified her Margo to make it dress length and added a gathered full length sleeve. Cindy styled her Margo with dress pants for work or leggings and boots for fun around town. Cindy already has a request from her daughter for a Margo of her own.

 

Amy from That’s Sew Amy liked her first Georgia so much, she took on the challenge of pattern matching to make another one. Once you get a handle on a crazy print on a four-way stretch knit you can quickly have another Georgia for yourself or to give as a gift.

 

Blue Dot Patterns is sponsoring two generous giveaways. Leave a comment here with which pattern you would like to make and be sure to click through to get entered:
a Rafflecopter giveaway
Next, visit the Blue Dot Patterns blog, gatorbunnysews, for another giveaway.

Creative Sewing Challenge with Blue Dot Patterns + Giveaway

Welcome the the first week of the Creative Sewing Challenge. I’m glad you’re here.

ChallengeButton Primary

I’ve paired up with Diane (gatorbunnysews) of Blue Dot Patterns to host the Creative Sewing Challenge. We’ve asked sewists to let their creativity flow with the patterns. I’ll be featuring these creative projects for you over the next couple weeks. Be sure to click through to see the details of these projects and get ready to put these at the top of your To Sew list. Then hop on over to Blue Dot Patterns to take advantage of the 40% off sale (for a limited time).

Michelle from That Black Chic has this amazing rendition of the Margo pattern. The Margo is a great pattern to showcase a beautiful print. By creating a sleeve add on and a simple skirt, Michelle gets a variety of looks out of her Margo.

Taking a pattern from good to great is so easy with a thoughtful use of fabrics. Amy from That’s Sew Amy found a soft lace to make Georgia just her style. Wear it with jeans or funky pants to look all around awesome.

Shannon from Shanniloves used lace and pintucks to make her Margo in a sweet boho style that suits her. To make her Margo extra special Shannon used a vintage lace from her stash, inspiration from a RTW garment, and a soft rayon fabric that drapes beautifully.

front2_Snapseed

 

Blue Dot Patterns is sponsoring two generous giveaways. Leave a comment here with which pattern you would like to make and be sure to click through to get entered:
a Rafflecopter giveaway
Next, visit the Blue Dot Patterns blog, gatorbunnysews, for another giveaway.

Stay tuned to see more Creative Sewing Challenge projects next week from:

Ashley of sewnbyashley
Sara of musingsofaseamstress:
Kyla of LifebyKy

Introducing the Creative Sewing Challenge

ChallengeButton Primary

I have partnered with Diane (gatorbunnysews) of Blue Dot Patterns to host the Creative Sewing Challenge. We’ve asked sewists to let their creativity flow with the patterns. I’ll be featuring these creative projects for you over the next few weeks.

Please visit our creative sewists to learn more about them and maybe get a sneak peak of their project.

Michelle of thatblackchic
Ashley of sewnbyashley
Sara of musingsofaseamstress
Cindy of Cindyparrett.com
Shanni from Shanniloves
Kyla of LifebyKy
Amy of thatssewamy
and me: Melissa of mahlicadesigns

 

Stay tuned to see the Creative Sewing Challenge projects beginning next week, enter the Blue Dot Patterns giveaways, and watch for another surprise.

 

Thank you to Rachel from bobbinsonmymind; who is participating in spirit, but preparing for baby in reality.

Matilda Leggings from Spit Up and Stillettos

I’m pretty sure I mentioned earlier in a post about my Core Wardrobe that I would never wear leggings. I loath that people wear them as pants and I did leggings (stirrup pants back then) in middle school so…

Tonic 2 Tee hack by mahlicadesigns

So here are some leggings I made. Yup, never say never. In September, I joined in a challenge from the facebook group, Sew Alongs & Contests to sew four coordinates. For the challenge I made the Matilda leggings, a skirt, the color blocked Tonic 2 Tee you see above, and a self drafted wristlet. (Watch future posts for details)

The leggings were made to wear under skirts, but are already in heavy rotation around the house as a slightly less frumpy option then wearing my pjs past 10am. (Ah, the problems of a stay at home mom)

Matilda legging by mahlicadesigns

Just a few thoughts on the Matilda Leggings pattern:

This pattern is seriously short in the rise. Without the 3in waistband you’d be a little indecent. I added 1in to the front and back rise and will add another 1/2in to the back rise next time.

Matilda leggings by mahlicadesigns

I made a straight medium according to my measurements, but am feeling a little like a sausage around the rear end, so a little adjustment is needed there. There’s also a little extra room around the calves to slim down.

Matilda legging by mahlicadesigns

Caption: Earlier photo shoot with longer hair

If you are tall you’ll need to add some length to the legs also. I’m 5’4 and the length is perfect for me. I measured the inseam at about 27in.

matildas closeup 2

I picked up 1.5yd of this fabric from the red tag shelves of Joann Fabrics. (Of course I can’t find it online to link you) The right side is a grayish blue with a faded denim look. I used the wrong side, as it was so much cooler and in my Core color palette. I’d say it’s a medium weight knit with good stretch.

Matilda leggings close ip

Caption: I thought I set the..

These went together so quickly I was a little stunned. How often do you get a project done, cut to finish, in one hour? Bonus: At my height, I only used half of my yardage, so plenty left to make the Tonic 2 Tee (to be blogged later) and more.

The Matilda Leggings should take you one hour to complete.

Fabric $8   Pattern $Free    Total Cost: $8

Bonnell Dress by mahlicadesigns

What to say about this super cute dress pattern? Oh, I know. Go get it.

100_3983Here’s what to like about the Bonnell Dress:

Triangle cut outs at the sides balanced by a higher neckline so you’re not showing too much skin. A slight V-shaped back to keep things interesting from the rear too.

100_3933I made a size 6 in a quilting cotton with metallic dots from Joanns as a pattern tester for Dixie DIY. (The final pattern may be different)

Bonnell dress by mahlicadesignsMy thoughts:

The dress looks complicated with those cut outs, but it really goes together pretty easily. Dixie’s instructions and illustrations are clear and easy to follow.

Bonnell Dress by mahlicadesignsThe toughest part is making sure you mark and sewing accurately on the triangle parts and sticking it out through all those darts. Twelve darts in all, geesh that’s a time eater, but well worth the great fit of the bodice.

100_3928I made a small adjustment to the shoulder seam which is common for me, dropping the seam by 3/8in at the outer edge to take care of some gaping around the arm hole.

Next time I would reposition the pockets lower so my arms can rest in more of a natural position for me. If I were to make it again in a quilting cotton, I would make the skirt portion smaller with a little less gathering. My sewing friends at the Denver Sewing Collective meetup recommended  I also add about 1/4in width to the bust dart to take care of the extra fabric you see at the sides of my waist. Isn’t fitting fun?

So, are you ready to give it a try? The Bonnell Dress Pattern goes on sale soon.

The Bonnell should take you about six hours.

Fabric $10.75 Lining $2 Zipper $2.25  Total Cost: $15

Handmade wardrobe $ Priceless

Orange Zip Skirt Simplicity 2451

I came across this vintage zipper from my grandmother in my stash and thought I’d use it as an exposed zipper in a project. I was drifting off to sleep, often when inspiration hits me, when I thought about pairing it with this cotton sateen I saw at Joann fabrics.

100_3887

I was hoping this knit red top would be a natural outfit, but meh, I’m liking it much better with this blue blouse.

100_3893

I’ve sewn up Simplicity 2451 view B in the past and really like how it fits me, so I chose view D feeling confident on a good fit. I had to lengthen the back darts an additional 3/8in for a better fit, but nothing else needed alteration.

100_3894

A couple new techniques for me on this skirt. I sewed the exposed zipper using this tutorial from Pattern Runway as a guide, next time I might try to figure out how to encase the end of the zipper tape for a nicer interior finish. I also used a stretch lace hem tape for the first time. I wanted to avoid the bulk of a double folded hem and keep as much length as I could. The tape worked perfectly.

Overall I’m pretty pleased with my Orange Zip skirt. The fit at the waistline and hips is spot on. On the down side, the cotton sateen is a bit stiff at the front pleats and poofs out a bit more than I’d like, but that’s not going to stop me from wearing it.

100_3892
Awkward arm posing

Here’s to more stash busting. I used a pattern, zipper, and hem tape from my stash.

SewYourPatternStashSq213

Simplicity 2451 View D should take you about 2.75 hours to complete.

Rose Tshirt from Blank Slate Patterns; pattern review

Theres nothing like purple to make me happy and to help break out of the basic colors I’ve been using to build my Core Wardrobe. The first of much more color to come for Spring and Summer, is my version of the Rose Tshirt from Blank Slate Patterns.

Rose Tshirt mahlicadesigns
Body is more of a plum color like the accent pieces

 

Likes:

  • The gathering at the front adds some nice ease through the body without making it baggy and I did not need to size up at the hips like usual.
  • Great pattern for a little stash busting of those quilting cottons I haven’t touched in a while.
  • The contrast options at the neckline draw the eye up and away from the tummy and hips.
  • I like inserting sleeves flat.
  • Theres a full facing on the front to cover up all those seams.
  • The pattern can easily be made into a dress with just a little grading for the hip/thigh. (The pattern has been re-released to include a dress option)

Rose Tshirt mahlicadesigns

Criticisms:

  • The seams at the front of the arm scythe are pretty bulky with three layers there. I’d recommend using a lighter weight fabric for the front facing to reduce the bulk.
  • The arm scythe at the front curves in toward the center front a bit and causes some pulling. I’m not going to spend time to adjust the pattern as I’m only planning to use this pattern again for a sleeveless version.
  • I determined that the triangle shape marking on pattern piece#6 needs to be moved by 1in down toward the center front to make the two front pieces #6 and #5  line up correctly. I purchased my pattern from a store, perhaps the PDF versions in the Blank Slate Patterns webstore have been corrected.

    Corrected marking in Red
    Corrected marking in Red

Rose Tshirt mahlicadesigns

Suggestions:

  • Go down a size if you’re between sizes. I’m a 35.5in bust and the small sized for up to a 35in bust has enough ease for me.
  • Understitch the facing around the neckline to prevent rolling, before top-stitching the front facing below the front yoke.
  • Use a lighter weight fabric for the front facing if possible, this will decrease bulk at the arm seams. Alternately, grade the seam allowances if you’re not using a serger.
  • Check your pattern pieces.
  • Lay out your front yoke pieces as demonstrated in the instructions to help keep track of what goes where.
  • I use stay tape at my shoulder seams when sewing with knits.

The Rose Tshirt takes about 3.25 hours to complete.

McCalls 6559 Summer Stripes dress; Core Wardrobe part 5

Come on warm weather, I’d like to see you.

100_3794

The warmth is still a ways off for us, but that’s why we take vacations right? In honor of warm vacations to come and because I just need/want to focus on spring and summer Core Wardrobe pieces I’m trying a pattern out of my stash. McCalls 6559.

100_3796

I found this striped knit, in my Core colors, in the Joanns red tag section. It was pretty stiff feeling, but at $2.5/yd I thought it would make a good beach cover up and give me some practice matching stripes. To my surprise, it softened up nicely after washing. Now I have a nice striped dress for summer, bonus!

100_3801

I sewed up view D in a size 12. I went with the maxi length after I realized I had bought more yardage than I remembered and what the hey, why not test out how maxi length looks on me using a bargain fabric. I can always shorten it.

I made a few simple modifications to the pattern and instructions.  I used a 1/4in seam allowance at the sides because I was concerned about having enough width at my hips and thighs, this turned out to be unnecessary. Instead of turning and topstitching, I used self fabric as neck and armhole binding, I just think this looks better. I removed 3in from the length, I’m 5’4, and sewed the hem at 5/8in.

100_3802It took extra time of course, but I’m pretty pleased with the pattern matching at the side seams.

I can see this pattern being pretty useful in a lightweight knit as pajamas, as a beach coverup in the shorter length as I originally planned, and to show off some awesome prints.

McCalls 6559 took 3 hours, including the extra time needed to match stripes and add neck and armhole bindings.