Shoreline Boatneck- Who Made It Best

Welcome back to Who Made It Best, a new series on mahlicadesigns.

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Who Made It Best is a friendly challenge where one of my blogger friends joins me in making up the same pattern to see Who Made It Best. The challenge rules are simple: 1. We agree on a pattern to use 2. sew it up to suit our personal styles 3. share it with you and ask you to vote. (oh, and we keep what we’re up to a secret from each other)

Ti from Sewing by Ti has joined me in making up the Shoreline Boatneck from Blank Slate Patterns for the challenge and you can check out her version here.

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The Shoreline pattern comes with several options for bodice and sleeve lengths and then when you add in the options from the expansion pack, it can be hard to choose where to start. I just went practical. I really need a longer sleeve dress for cooler weather but the impending summer pushed me to going for the short sleeve option.

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I recently purchased this striped knit from Simply by Ti (total coincidence that I used a fabric from my challenger’s shop) to add to my stash thinking I’d use it for a dress sometime. As I formulated my plan for the Shoreline, I knew these stripes would be the perfect fabric.

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If you’ve followed my blog for any time, you will know I just can’t leave well enough alone, I have to brainstorm through my pattern hack ideas to take it up a notch. Somewhere online lives my inspiration for the bodice hack I did here, but I cannot find it now to share.

Shoreline 1

For the hack, I traced off the front bodice piece from shoulder to 1/2in (my seam allowance) below the bottom of the armscythe. I then folded the top of the dress pattern piece over to cut out the lower portion of the bodice (plus 1/2in s.a.). I traced my new bodice piece onto a large piece of paper and cut out the middle to make myself a window to help me determine my stripe placement.

bodice stripe placement

You can see all my hash marks as I tried and only partially succeeded in lining up the bodice stripes to my sleeve stripes.

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Stripe matching on the sleeves only came out so so, but look at those side seams! I still feel very proud every time I get that stripe matching nailed.

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I’m barely 5’4″, so for my shorty self I had a choice between lengthening the tunic or shortening the dress. I went with the tunic, so I would have a narrower sweep at the hem and lengthened by 2in at the marked lengthen line at the waist and then added another 2in at the hem line.

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As you read my post today, I’ve already worn my dress to a graduation party and as a day dress on my vacation. At first I thought the dress was a little too roomy around the waist, but now I’m glad that it hides my over eating well.

I’d made the Shoreline in the past as a tee and it wasn’t true love -I like a wider boatneck opening; but I love this dress! I want more more more. (My hubby says this is his favorite dress I’ve made.)

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So, who do you think made the Shoreline best? Please visit Sewing by Ti for more pictures and details on her version, then place your vote for Who Made It Best. The poll will be on both sites, so you can see both versions before you choose your favorite. Voting open for one week.

VOTE HERE

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Many thanks to Blank Slate Patterns for providing the updated copy of the Shoreline Boatneck pattern for Ti and I to use for our posts.

Toaster Sweater for spring featuring Simply By Ti

Simply by Ti Fabrics recently let me pick one of her new open weave fabrics to try out. I chose the Black Crochet off of my wishlist with plans to do a pattern hack similar to this with the Blanc Tee. I altered my plan though, once I had the fabric in hand.

Sweatr knit

I was picturing a thin fabric more like lace (though I don’t know why), but this turned out to be just a bit heavier and thicker than the Hacci sweater knits I’ve used in the past with a similar mechanical stretch. The fiber content feels like a cotton or other natural fiber and is really soft.

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New plan: Use the Toaster Sweater to create a transitional spring piece that I can use for a lacey looking top.

My initial thought was that I would need to stabalize all the seams so the open weave wouldn’t pull apart and ruin my piece. I decided to eliminate the cuffs and bottom band to minimize the number of seams that I would have to treat in this way. I simply extended the bodice and sleeves to make up the difference.

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It turned out I didn’t need to stabalize all the seams after all. I did a test run through my overlocker on some scraps, played tug of war with them, and I have no worries about these seems. I did decide to add a strip of knit jersey as I sewed the neckline to give that seam some extra support.

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Here you can see how I folded it over to encase the neckline seam.

Neckline collage

For the hems, I did a double fold hem with a hand catch stitch for a nice looking finish that would have some stretch to it.

Toaster teaser

The PatternToaster Sweater 1 from Sew House Seven paired with my Goldenrod skirt. I can’t give a complete review here because of the changes I made and using an off book fabric choice, but I will share a few of the first impressions I had of the pattern. The pattern is pretty basic and the use of bands and cuffs eliminate the need for hemming, making the construction really easy. A sewing newbie could easily sew this up. I personally could have done with a more condensed version of the instructions.

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Does your fabric sometimes throw your plans for a loop, how do figure out what to do?

Toaster label 1

As always, thanks for stopping by today.

*Simply by Ti provided the fabric for today’s creation in exchange for a review. These are my honest thoughts on the fabric.

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Modern Stripey Boatneck featuring Simply By Ti

I’d like to thank Marta of doguincho for posting her beautiful Miss Marlene top and fueling the flames of inspiration for today’s Stripey Boatneck top. Inspiration often languishes on my pinterest boards for lack of pattern or just the right fabric. Not this time though. I have my tnt boatneck pattern (Butterick 6084 oop) at the ready and Simply by Ti Fabrics let me pick this wonderful rayon in ivory and black stripes to feature in a blog post.

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The Fabric: Rayon Spandex in ivory and black stripes from Simply by Ti. I love the drape of rayon, but it comes with the drawback of being a little clingy, a bear to sew, and I’ve been burned by instantly piling fabric. What I like most about the rayon from Simply by Ti is that it is a little heavier than the other rayon spandex blends I’ve used. The heavier rayon knit is a just a smidge easier to sew and press, is not as clingy, has the opacity I want in a light color, and still drapes nicely. I think with every rayon I’ve used before, the fibers start to lift or pill right away- very annoying. The surface of Ti’s rayon is still perfect after washing and manipulating- I’m very pleased.

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The inserts are a super stretchy, shiny cotton blend that I saved from shortening some rtw pants. I thought they looked like faux leather, so I kept them for a time such as this.

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A very simple pattern hack, some scrap busting, and viola; I have a modern twist on a very classic look.

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The Pattern: Butterick 6084 oop. To make space for an insert, I dropped the shoulder seam point by 1/2in on the front and back bodice pieces and smoothed out the neck lines on the pattern pieces.

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I folded over the hems for front and back necklines stabilizing with knit-n-stable from Pellon. Next I positioned my shoulder inserts, leaving 1 inch between the front and back bodice at the shoulder and pinned in place. I then stitched my necklines through all layers and proceeded to finish the tee according to the directions.

Stripey contruction

Next time, I would sew the inserts in differently, as the neckline tends to stand up and roll forward along the inserts, but I can live with it.

 

Boatneck Feature label

As always, thanks for stopping by today, and join me next week for the Breaking Ground Blog Tour.

*Simply by Ti provided the fabric for today’s creation. These are my honest thoughts on the fabric.

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Lightning Tee for Petitboo Blog Tour

I’ve been doing a little better about spreading out the sewing love and sewing for my little guy. I’d like to share about the Lightning Tee from Petitboo Patterns (formerly E+M) that I made up recently for the PetitBoo Blog Tour to help promote their rebranding. (Discount code below)

Lightning tee IG label

The lightning tee was an easy pick for me because the lightning shape is so graphic and gives a superhero look; and there are all kinds of color blocking options in this shirt. The puppy heros fabric in my stash was just right to play off the graphic shape.

I’m so pleased with how it came out and can see using this pattern over and over again.

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At first I was a little concerned that I picked a tough pattern with all those angles to sew in, but the bodice pieces are layered over each other and topstitched together instead. So easy.

To make sure I lined things up evenly, I used my chalk marker to mark the 1/2in seam allowance on one side and then lined up the raw edge of the other piece along the chalk line to get a perfect 1/2in overlap. I did just fine pinning and sewing along the topstitching lines of this seam, but I could see how something like Wonder Tape would work great here too.

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I made a size 5/6 for my almost 5 year old and he has plenty of growing room as planned.

The hardest part of this pattern was picking out which colors to use where.

I have my eye on the Hemlock tee for boys too- another a colorblock tee with a nice buttoned shoulder and side split at the hem.

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The Fabric: I paired my stashed print with a turquoise cotton lycra from Simply by Ti*. The cotton lycra from Simply by Ti worked perfectly for this project; it has good recovery, doesn’t curl up after being cut, and was easy to sew.  The front piece is topstitched together along the lightning zigzag and there was no problem with stretching or rippling of the cotton lycra. I had 1in of shrinkage in my one yard cut after washing cold drying low/med heat. There was some edge curling after washing but I find that to be normal.

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I have a discount code for you from Petitboo etsy shop!

Use code: petitboo50 for 50% off in the etsy store.
Good from Monday (March 6th) 12:00 am to Friday 11:59 pm (March 10th).

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Please join my blogging friends for more from the Petitboo Pattern tour this week:

 

 

As always, thanks for visiting today!

 

Petitboo Patterns provided me a complimentary copy of the Lightning Tee pattern to use in the Petitboo Blog Tour.
Simply by Ti provided me a sample of her cotton lycra in exchange for a review. These are my honest observations of the fabric.