Sewing with friends; Liana Jeans and Lisbon Cardigan for ITS Love Tour + Giveaway

My friend Diane of Sewing with D and I decided to work together to sew up two items on our project list, the Lisbon Cardigan and Liana Stretch Jeans from Itch to Stitch (ITS). We had already completed our Lisbons and were about to start on our Lianas when the opportunity to participate in a blog tour in support of Kennis from Itch to Stitch came to the forefront. (See why here)

Diane and I quickly decided to open up our plans to sew together to the entire Itch to Stitch facebook group so others could join in with us and let’s just say some sewing got done. Hoorah!

For my stop on the ITS Love tour, I’d like to present my Lisbon and Liana outfit.

I made up the Lisbon in an interlock knit that’s been in my stash for over five years. The Lisbon is super easy and fast to make, especially if you skip the buttons. I think I finished this project in less than 2 hours cut to finish.

Being on a bit of a pant making stretch, the Lianas came together easily for me too. All the time I’ve invested into working out my fitting needs and having more practice making pants is really starting to pay off.

Special thanks to Diane and all the sewists that joined us to make our Liana jeans. I’ve been needing the extra motivation lately.

As always, please visit my fellow bloggers today.

Replicate Then Deviate, mahlicadesigns, Sewing with D, The Petite Sewist,  kreamino

These ITS Love tour sponsors have generously provided wonderful prizes for you to win. See my post here for all the details about the FIVE prize packs we have to Giveaway and how to enter.

ITS Love Sponsor Graphic final

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Birkin Flares

After making the Liana Jeans, I was questioning if it is worth the many hours it takes to sew your own jeans. I got some good responses to the question and decided that before I could decide that question for myself, that I really need to sew one or two more pairs. I want to see if I can cut down the sewing time and if I think I’m getting a better fit than store bought.

Just as I was prepping to sew another pair of jeans, I won a Birkin Flare kit in the monthly drawing from IndieSew. Right away, I dove into making the Birkin Flares with some stash denim.

 

To the pattern I added a 1in full seat adjustment based on my experience with the Liana Jeans, shortened the Birkins 2in at the upper thigh adjustment line, shortened 2in at the lower leg adjustment line, and shortened 2in at the hem.

My fit muslin came out so well, that I finished them out.

Overall I’m pretty pleased with the fit of the Birkins. Next time I might make them a smidge longer, make them slimmer through the upper thigh, and look into changing the construction of the CB seam.

I was able to sew these jeans just a smidge faster and the process was easier the second time around especially since I didn’t have to do a ton of fitting to the muslin. Though I still need to tweak fit, I feel like I’m close there too. I’ve decided that I will continue to make my own jeans.

The Pattern: Birkin Flares in size 29.  1in Full Seat Adjustment, shortened 6in total. 3/8in seam allowance used at inseam and side seam.

The Fabric: Indigo denim from Fashion Fabrics Club.

The Birkin Flares took 10.75 hours to make. I used 1 1/3yard at 54in wide denim.

Total cost $12          Fabric: $9             Pattern $0         Notions $3

Liana Jeans at the eleventh hour

I made jeans you guys!

I’ve never made pants or jeans before, so working through the learning curve of fitting was intimidating as heck and totally frustrating at points.

 

I started sewing my muslin for the Liana Stretch Jeans last December (2015), got stymied with the fitting process, and put them aside for other things. I really wanted to get past my fear of sewing pants though, so completing a pair of jeans was a big sewing goal for this year.

I’ll spare you the fitting trials, but I will let you know that I ended up using a full butt adjustment, taking a 1in wedge out of the back thigh to remove wrinkles, taking in the waist about 1 inch, and adjusting the crotch curve. I’m sure I’ll have to do these adjustments on any pants pattern.

Now that I’ve knocked off one of my major sewing goals, I should be jumping up and down and giddy, but really I felt burnt out by the process.

Pattern: Liana Stretch Jeans from Itch to Stitch. Size 8. Bootcut version, but I straightened out the legs because my fabric was not wide enough. The pattern calls for 25% stretch denim which is tough to find. My muslin fabric barely had 5% stretch and was tough to work with. My final version had 15% stretch and was plenty in my mind. If you’re having trouble finding 25% stretch denim, consider using 10%-15% stretch denim instead and buy enough to make a muslin. Itch to Stitch has a super helpful sew along that expands on the instructions, walks through doing a muslin, and gives tips on distressing your denim.

Fabric: 2yds x 52in wide of 10oz denim with 15% stretch from Girl Charlee (no longer available) and a fat quarter of quilting cotton.

I created a pinterest board with jean details if you’d like some inspiration.

The Liana Stretch Jeans took me 11 hours to complete, plus several hours invested into the fitting muslin. I’m hoping that can be cut that down by a couple hours.

Total Cost: $28.60    Fabric $13        Pattern $9.60      Notions: $6

Eleven hours. That’s a big number… and that’s what has me thinking seriously about if I’ll make jeans again. I’m trying to weigh if the time investment is worth the outcome vs. if I can swallow buying RTW and it’s implications.

Keep watching this space for the decision. A pair of Birkin Jeans was on my original plan, but I’m taking a little time to decide on my course of action.

  • I’ve included my Itch to Stitch affiliate links.