Seasonal Sew Wardrobe: Deep Stash sewing challenge

I completed the latest Seasonal Sew Wardrobe (SSW) challenge from the Sew Alongs and Sewing Contests a few weeks ago. The latest challenge was to make up eight items using patterns from deep in your stash. Perfect for me, since it’s been a goal of mine to sew up my stash patterns anyway.

My original plan was to make up a spring capsule using Simplicity 1430 Dress in cotton batiste, ALENA Top in white on white stripe jersey, Cozy Comfy pjs in blue madras plaid, Capitol Hill Dress in sequined black jersey, NICKI capris in black DBP, Gypsy dress in wax print cotton or rayon challis, and figure out two more as I went along.

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My final mini capsule (left to right, top to bottom) contains the Onyx Shirt, ALENA tee, Comfy Cozy pajamas, Ally Skirt, NICKI capris, Comfy Cozy pajamas, Capitol Hill Dress, Gypsy Dress, and my modern boatneck.

SSW DS collage

I have seperates that work with each other, pajamas that are not an after thought, a versatile summer dress, and an event worthy dress.

It has been a long time coming, but I’m starting to feel like I have a pretty cohesive wardrobe to work with. The challenges in the Sew Alongs and Sewing Contests group aren’t about building a capsule wardrobe necessarily; but they are a great at getting me to focus on my sewing goals, one of which is building outfits.

Would you like to participate in the next sewing challenge? The next challenge starts soon. Hop on over, join the group, and get sewing with us.

Modern Stripey Boatneck featuring Simply By Ti

I’d like to thank Marta of doguincho for posting her beautiful Miss Marlene top and fueling the flames of inspiration for today’s Stripey Boatneck top. Inspiration often languishes on my pinterest boards for lack of pattern or just the right fabric. Not this time though. I have my tnt boatneck pattern (Butterick 6084 oop) at the ready and Simply by Ti Fabrics let me pick this wonderful rayon in ivory and black stripes to feature in a blog post.

Boatneck 3

The Fabric: Rayon Spandex in ivory and black stripes from Simply by Ti. I love the drape of rayon, but it comes with the drawback of being a little clingy, a bear to sew, and I’ve been burned by instantly piling fabric. What I like most about the rayon from Simply by Ti is that it is a little heavier than the other rayon spandex blends I’ve used. The heavier rayon knit is a just a smidge easier to sew and press, is not as clingy, has the opacity I want in a light color, and still drapes nicely. I think with every rayon I’ve used before, the fibers start to lift or pill right away- very annoying. The surface of Ti’s rayon is still perfect after washing and manipulating- I’m very pleased.

Boatneck 15

The inserts are a super stretchy, shiny cotton blend that I saved from shortening some rtw pants. I thought they looked like faux leather, so I kept them for a time such as this.

Boatneck 12

A very simple pattern hack, some scrap busting, and viola; I have a modern twist on a very classic look.

Boatneck 4

The Pattern: Butterick 6084 oop. To make space for an insert, I dropped the shoulder seam point by 1/2in on the front and back bodice pieces and smoothed out the neck lines on the pattern pieces.

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I folded over the hems for front and back necklines stabilizing with knit-n-stable from Pellon. Next I positioned my shoulder inserts, leaving 1 inch between the front and back bodice at the shoulder and pinned in place. I then stitched my necklines through all layers and proceeded to finish the tee according to the directions.

Stripey contruction

Next time, I would sew the inserts in differently, as the neckline tends to stand up and roll forward along the inserts, but I can live with it.

 

Boatneck Feature label

As always, thanks for stopping by today, and join me next week for the Breaking Ground Blog Tour.

*Simply by Ti provided the fabric for today’s creation. These are my honest thoughts on the fabric.

Simply by Ti banner

VS. Pattern Showdown Series Conclusion

VS.

So long VS.

I found some winners, finally used some patterns that have been in my stash for a while, and used quite a bit of my fabric stash too.

In week 1, I looked at dolman sleeve tees. I like a dolman because they can be skinny through the arm without being tight at the underarm. I paired the Aurora Tee by Hey June Handmade VS Georgia by Blue Dot Patterns.

Our Winner: The Georgia Top.

Georgia Top

In week 2, I looked at boatneck tees. I chose boatnecks for my wardrobe to distract from my rounded shoulders. I paired the Shoreline by Blank Slate Patterns VS Butterick 6084(oop).

Our Winner: Butterick 6084.

Butterick 2

In week 3, I looked at the on trend raglan tee. A raglan also works for my preference for a roomy underarm and skinny sleeve. I paired the Lane Raglan by Hey June Handmade VS Easy Tee Raglan from It’s Always Autumn.

Our Winner: Lane Raglan

Lane 3

In week 4, I looked at leggings. Leggings are purely around the house casual wear for me. I paired the Matilda Legging from Spit Up & Stilettos VS Sloan Leggings from Hey June

Our Winner: Sloan leggings.

Sloan 7

I hope you enjoyed seeing patterns paired up in a head to head showdown, VS. will return after some spring sewing.

Be sure you’re following mahlicadesigns so you don’t miss what I’m doing next. (Over there on the right side bar)

Shoreline Boatneck VS Butterick 6084: Pattern Showdown Series

Welcome back to VS.

A series here at mahlicadesigns with the aim of pairing similar styles against each other in a friendly showdown to see which pattern better suits me, all while working through my pattern stash. (Overview here)

Today we looking at two boat neck tops.

Shoreline Boatneck from Blank Slate Patterns

 Shoreline VS. Butterick collage

 Butterick 6084 (OOP)

The Shoreline Boatneck full pattern comes with sleeve length options and top or dress lengths. I downloaded the free short sleeve tee version before the extended pattern was released for sale. This stripes rayon jersey knit from Girl Charlee just called for a boatneck tee in my mind. The light weight knit is more suitable for spring and summer, so I kept the sleeves short. The fabric is a bit sheer also, so I omitted the neckline facing for a folded over neck band. I used my 1/4in foot to topstitch the folded over neck band in place and it worked really well to keep my top stitching even and it also helped keep the neckband tucked under as I sewed.

Shoreline VS Butterick 1

Shoreline VS Butterick 2

Butterick 6084 is an out of print 2 Hour Fast & Easy pattern in boatneck or V neck and half or three quarters sleeve lengths. This Halston top is the inspiration for my colorblocked version. I made my color line 3in up from the marked bust point for the bodice. For the sleeves I simply added about 8in to the bottom of the 3/4 sleeve. The instructions have you sew your side seams, sew your sleeve seams, baste and gather your sleeve cap, and insert into the arm scythe. Save yourself the trouble by inserting your sleeve cap flat, then sew up your side seams and sleeves in one shot. So much easier.

Shoreline VS. Butterick 3

Shoreline VS Butterick 4

Let’s compare.

Instructions.

Shoreline: I had no instructions. I downloaded the pattern for free; the tutorial and free version were removed from the website after she released the full pattern for sale in her shop. I’ve used other Blank Slate Patterns, so you can be assured the instructions are good.

Butterick: Overall very easy excepting for the sleeve insertion being needlessly complicated. No need to gather the sleeve head and insert into the closed arm scythe. I sewed my sleeves in flat instead.

Fit.

Shoreline:  Used size small. Feels great. I may remove the smallest bit of extra width at the sleeve hem next time.

Butterick: Used size 12 Great fit overall. I need the bodice just a little longer.

Style.

Shoreline: The curved side seams and curved hemline give extra feminine look. I’d like the boat neckline a little wider across the shoulders

Butterick: The traditional, wider  boatneck shaped neckline is just what I like.

Investment.

Shoreline: 2.25 hours to make, fabric $4 pattern free, about 1yd @ 45in wide

Butterick: 2.25 hours to make, fabric $3, pattern free, about 1 yd @ 60in wide

Opportunities.

Shoreline: Pretty easy to colorblock and change sleeve lengths. Drafting into the dress version would be fun to.

Butterick: Pretty easy to colorblock and change sleeve lengths.

For me, the Butterick 6084 is the winner. I like the wider neckline and easy sleeve length options. A mash up adding the curved sideseams of the Shoreline would make the perfect tee.

Butterick 3