Chi Town Chinos- Who Made It Best

Welcome back to Who Made It Best, a series on mahlicadesigns.

Who Made It Best is a friendly challenge where one of my blogger friends joins me in making up the same pattern to see Who Made It Best. The challenge rules are simple: 1. We agree on a pattern to use 2. sew it up to suit our personal styles 3. share it with you and ask you to vote. (Oh, and we keep what we’re up to a secret from each other)

Ct side by side 2 label

Sewing with Sarah has joined me in making up the Chi Town Chinos for this week’s challenge. The Chi Town Chinos are a relaxed fit short and skirt pattern with optional expansion packs for a fitted trouser or fitted longer short. Alina Sewing & Design was so kind to provide Sarah with a complimentary copy of the original pattern plus expansion pack for our challenge.  Please check out Sarah’s blog here to see what she made.

I’ve had the inspiration for todays Chi Town jean hack waiting on a Pinterest board until my pant making chops were a little more practiced and for the right boyfriend cut jean pattern to come my way. I had been waiting for the Morgan boyfriend jean pattern to go on sale, when a facebook friend pointed out that I could use my Chi Town pattern instead. Bingo!

To get the boyfriend cut look, I added 1/2in at the hem line to both the inseam and outseam of the front and back pieces, then graded that increase down to zero just above the knee point. Next, I added width to the pocket pattern piece so I could add a couple tucks to the pocket detail.

My final pattern modification was to shift the location of the side seams. I wanted the woven striped panel to cover part of the front and back side while still being able to encase the raw edge of my striped woven. I trimmed away 1in from the side seam of the front piece and added 1in to the side seam of the back piece.

After my pattern alterations I was able to follow the pattern instructions like usual to construct the pants, with one additional step. Before sewing up the side seams, I basted the woven panel to the side seam edge of the back piece and also topstitched the selvage edge of the woven down.

Details for my enjoyment: 1. Hong Kong finished side seams 2. bound waistband facing 3. label on the fly shield 4. tuck detail on the pocket.

Blooper reel: 1. button-hole is wonky and a smidge tight 2. I made the front pockets effectively useless by shifting the side seam.

The Pattern: Chi Town Chino Expansion pack #2 made in size 6 and altered as described.

The Fabric: Grey stretch denim(sold out)  from Finch Fabrics and what I think is a Guatemalan striped woven from inherited stash. The stretch in my denim is a big player in accomplishing the boyfriend fit.

So, who do you think made their Chi Town’s best? Please visit Sewing with Sarah for more pictures and details on her version, then place your vote for Who Made It Best. The poll will be on both blogs, so you can see both versions before you choose your favorite. Voting open for one week and results will be posted on Instagram.

VOTE HERE

You can also take a look at the Bronte Tee, Shoreline Boatneck, Sorbetto Top,  Greenwood Tank and Cheyenne Tunic that were part of past Who Made It Best challenges.

Are you interested in a challenge? Contact me at mahlicadesigns@gmail.com to join in the WMIB fun for 2018.

You can follow me on instagram, Bloglovin, or by entering your email in the right side bar.

As always, thanks for visiting and voting today.

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Sew Long Summer…hello Chi Towns and Toaster Sweater

I’m saying Sew Long Summer with two items that have been a long time coming.

I’ve needed a classic pair of trousers (that fit), since my son was born five years ago.

Feeling pretty good about the Chi Town Chino shorts that I’ve been making, it seemed a natural choice to use the Chi Town expansion pack to make my first pair of trousers.

I’m really pleased with how they came out; though after an hour and a half into making the welt pockets I thought I’d never reach the end of them. Hang in there, the pockets come out so nicely and the rest of the pant moves along quickly.

The Pattern: Chi Town Chino Pants (expansion pack) in Size 8.

The Fabric: Black twill from Imagine Gnats (now sold out)

For my top, I’m revisiting the Toaster Sweater. When I made it last spring (here) I honestly didn’t think I’d make another one, but it turns out the Toaster was just the pattern for showcasing my surface design idea.

I’ve had my heart set on some tapir fabric since seeing some on etsy last year. After watching Elizabeth Made This use fabric stamping so often, I was really encouraged that I could give stamping my own fabric a try (it took about a year of thinking about it though).

I used a Speedball kit (similar) and Jacquard fabric paint from my stash. I think I spent about thirty minutes carving the stamp and another ten stamping the fabric. After Elizabeth’s advice, I heat set the fabric paint for a good five minutes and let the fabric dry an additional week before laundering. So far so good.

The pattern: Toaster Sweater from Sew House Seven size medium with no alterations.

The fabric: French terry in mint from Simply by Ti Fabrics – oh my goodness is this so soft and cozy.

As always, thanks for reading today. I hope you’ll visit todays bloggers in the Sew Long Summer Blog tour.

Tuesday: mahlicadesigns, My Heart Will So On, Couturious, Anne-Mari Sews, Adventures With Bubba and Bug

 

Chi-Town Chinos #SewingDare by mahlicadesigns

A couple months back I took a #SewingDare from Gillian at Crafting A Rainbow. Gillian’s challenge: “I love your mustard skirt, and how it stands out against the neutrals in your wardrobe… so I dare you to make something else bright that can mix and match into your wardrobe!”

My stash is almost all neutrals, so I  grabbed the most colorful fabric in there and started brainstorming. Generally I’m not a florals person, but this cotton twill has moved between my stash and my giveaway pile so many times it’s a little silly. The challenge and the recently released Chi-Town Chinos was a good push to getting cutting.

I really like the chino style of the Chi-Towns and have put the skirt version on my Sew Everything list. I definitely want more of these shorts, but that will have to wait for Spring sewing.

The Pattern: Chi-Town Chinos shorts from Alina Design Co. in size 10 based on my measurements. The pattern includes a shorts or skirt version and four options for back pockets.

I liked that you get all the pattern pieces ready right at the start and that the single piece front pocket is nicely finished with facings and french seams. There is a lot of attention to detail that makes everything about the shorts a step above.

The pattern and instructions have fitting built in, which is great for your first time sewing the pattern. The back pattern piece includes an extension that makes it easy to fit the waist and in my case a fuller seat. The instructions walk you through basting and fitting the back piece before you do your final sew.

I found I did not need the extension or need to do a full butt adjustment in my size, but I did have a lot of excess fabric in the back of the legs below my seat. I think this is an indicator that I need to size down and do a full butt adjustment for the smaller size.  I ended up removing 1 in at the inseam and side seam of the back piece only. I like the fit I have now, so I probably won’t experiment with going down a size.

Next time I will also adjust the front crotch curve. I find it scoops out just a little too much for me.

I’m pretty impressed that most of the fitting issues were worked out on the first try by following the pattern instructions.

The fabric: One yard of Cone Mills cotton twill and about a FQ of lightweight cotton both from inherited stash.

I’m pleased that the shorts do work with several tops, but honestly the jury is still out on this print. I’ll need to give these some wearing around before I decide if they are “me” or if they will be downgraded to around the house shorts.

Chi Towns feature banner

The Chi-Town Chino shorts took me about 5 hours to complete, including fitting and adjustments. I’m hoping to cut that down to 3.5 hours next time.

Total Cost: $13.75    Fabric $0 (inherited stash)        Pattern $12      Notions: $1.75