Burda’s Sergeant Pepper Jacket 06/2016 #120

It’s been quite a while since I’ve taken on a Burdastyle pattern; long enough that the memory had faded of how I hate adding in seam allowances and how frustrating their instructions are . Argh.

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Argh indeed, but I pushed through with the end goal in mind of having this cool jacket to wear.

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Emily from Boho Fabrics* sent me some of the Paige Stretch Denim to use in a project as part of her Boho Tribe (more about the Boho Tribe at the end of this post). I had lots of ideas about what I did not want to make with it. No to jeans- I just made some, jean jacket-I never wear the one I own, denim skirt- not interested, and so on. My Pinterest boards held the answer of course. Burdastyle’s Sergeant Pepper Jacket would do the trick. The denim would look great with some silver buttons and I love cropped jackets.

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From past experience with Burda I went up one size and worked up a muslin. I was pleased with the overall fit excepting for the armscye depth hit very low under the arm. So low I couldn’t raise my arms much above 45 degrees with out the whole jacket lifting up with me.

I’ve never had to make this kind of pattern alteration before, so I used this tutorial from The Daily Sew to walk me through adjusting the armscye and making the corresponding sleeve cap adjustment.

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Being able to move your arms is something you take for granted until you meet a too deep armscye.

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This time I was able to make it quite a way through Burdastyle’s instructions before getting totally confused. I was able to construct the entire bodice and sleeves, but they lost me with the zipper installation and the facing instructions. No worries, I simply installed my zipper as I have with many projects, attached the facings and done.

Sergeant Pepper collage final

 

The Pattern: Burdastyle 06/2016 #120 in size 80 with armscye and sleeve cap alterations. Armscye raised 1.25in under the arm and sleeve cap reduced about 1in.

The Fabric: Paige Stretch Denim from Boho Fabrics*. 1 3/4 yards used.

Next time: I don’t see myself making this pattern again as the style is pretty distinctive, but I’d reshape my sleeve cap as it looks a little flattened. I’m also not too thrilled on my effort on those rounded tabs, so I’d make the button tabs with pointed ends instead.

 

As always, thanks for reading today.

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*This post may contain affiliate links, if you purchase through my links I get a small portion to help pay for my sewing hobby.

As a member of the Boho Tribe, when I make a qualifying purchase from Boho Fabrics I am sent complemetary additional fabrics to use in a project in exchange for sharing that project with you.

Boho Fabrics is having a flash sale today to help you stock up before the Holidays.

 

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In it for the long haul with Burda 7140 jacket

It’s been a few years since I’ve taken on a time intensive project like the Burda 7140 jacket. On a whim I purchased some faux leather online thinking maybe I’ll make a jacket. So far I’ve made a wristlet, this jacket, and  have plans to work it into a top that’s a few notches down on my sewing list.

Faux leather jacket by mahlicadesigns

I decided to join in a coat sew along hosted by Erica B in October. All of a sudden this “maybe someday” jacket was in the works. I came really close to meeting the suggested deadline too. The night before the sew along ended, I needed to put in my zipper, attach the bottom hem, and close up the lining; simple right. Too bad the suggested zipper length was 1.5 inches too short. Of course I didn’t get to the store for another 10 days to get a replacement zipper. 10 days which I filled up with the Georgia Top and volunteering as a tester for the Zircon Sweater.

Georgia Top by mahlicadesigns

Working with the faux leather wasn’t tough by any means it just took patience;  no pins allowed, tissue paper under the presser foot, press and press again kind of patience.

To add a little body to the faux leather and faux suede accent, I used interlining on all pieces except the sleeves. I ran out of the interlining fabric and figured an interlining wouldn’t be needed in the sleeves any way. I like the finished result and the interlining made resolution of  big problem possible.

I could press the faux leather but it did not keep a press very well. I found myself pressing and repressing over and over and was feeling pretty gloomy about how the jacket was going to work if the seams wouldn’t stay pressed. I was getting to the last steps before completion when…yes, you guessed it! I used a herringbone catch stitch on all those seam allowances. I wouldn’t have been able to fix the problem of the seams without being able to attach them to that interlining. The solution was pretty basic, but having never needed to use a catch stitch before, it was slow to come to me.

Faux leather jacket by mahlicadesigns

I used the pattern instructions only as a general guide. I did not want seam lines on my cuffs and hem, so I tacked the cuff to the side seam to keep it in place. Using a jump hem, and tacking the hem up at the bodice seams was the solution for the hem line.

Details: Burda 7140 View A Size 12.

Alterations: Added 1/2in to the depth of the shoulder darts. Shortened sleeves by 3in and it looks like they could use some more attention. Used a 1/2in seam allowance on the bodice seams to give a little extra ease. The ease stated in the pattern was nowhere to be found in my muslin or final version.

Next time I would slim down the sleeves a bit and consider going up a size to compensate for the lack of ease.

Fabric: knit faux leather from Fabricmart (Similar to), faux suede, poly interlining and lining.

Burda 7140 took me 14.5 hours to complete, but if you choose an easier fabric you could probably get yours done in half that time. Seriously.

Fabric/Supplies $33.50    Pattern $2  Total $35.50

Feeling like a bad a**: Priceless

 

On another note, I’ve added a Buy It page up there in the menu. I have a few things I’ve made, some fabric to destash, and even a few free things*

*you pay to ship

So Simple Shrug the hard way

Without planning it, I  found a way to up my sewing patience by taking a quick and easy pattern and making it difficult.

Shrug 1

The So Simple Shrug, is an apt name for this pattern. One pattern piece, easy fabric, and easy finishing were just what I needed during a busy December. Here’s how it went off the rails.

  1. Velvet seemed to be just the luxe look needed to pair with a sequined dress for my Christmas party. So off I go with my long shopping list, hubby and little guy keeping busy at the store next door. In all the happy alone time fabric shopping I didn’t think to check that the knit velvet I selected had enough stretch for the pattern. It turned out to have next to none.
  2. Spend extra time measuring pattern so I could compensate for lack of stretch. All in all, I just used the largest size, planning to reduce down if needed.
  3.  Because my fabric has a nap, I cut it out single layer and did not cut out the pattern diagonal to the grain line as instructed, resulting in not having enough fabric and a return to the store for more.
  4. I used velvet, that shifty little stinker. Those fibers kept pushing away from each other. I pinned the stuffing out of this, basted and then sewed each seam.
  5. To avoid a noticeable stitch line, I use a blind hem stitch, only to realize the process pressed in a crease. Pretty visible.

Shrug 3

Using the largest size F for 43in bust instead of the  C for 35in bust worked just perfectly to compensate for the lack of stretch in the fabric. The only modification was to shorten the sleeve length by 1/2in, still giving me 1.5in to use for a sleeve hem.

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I added 1/2in to the neckline, front and bottom of back of the pattern before cutting, so I could hem that edge.

Shrug back

Next time, I would modify the front curve to give a little more coverage. Just my personal taste.

Kids Clothing Week 2014…my plan

Allrighty, its my first time participating in a sew along of sorts. July 21 through 27 is Kids Clothing Week where participants are challenged to sew 1 hour a day for 7 days.

kid's clothes week

Here’s my ambitious plan. Ambitious because I have a toddler that has decided to boycott naptime of late and because I several ideas but have not been as OCD about making sure I have the materials to complete these projects (running off to the fabric store is not as easy as it used to be).

Okay now for my plan, lets see how I actually do.

Project One: Boys Basic Blazer from Blank Slate Patterns

I’ve made pants and a tee from Blank Slate Patterns before and they are a dream to use. I actually have all the materials I need for the blazer except for the buttons. I have a pretty good stash of buttons, so I have high hopes for this project.

Project Two: Winter PJs. Bottoms using Clean Slate Pants by Blank Slate Patterns; Top tbd.

100_3343Here’s my version of the Clean Slate Pant.

I have some charcoal grey and robins egg blue fleece in my stash to use up for the pjs. I have just enough charcoal to make the pants without pockets if I use a bit of the blue as a side stripe and I’m hoping enough of the blue to do a simple top. I give this project about 50/50 chances.

Project Three: Activity Station/Seat Saver

Something like this from 8th Day creations.

Not that we have a super fancy or even super clean car but it grates on me when I hear my little guy’s shoes sliding against the back of our leather seats. I’m hoping something like this will be great for little guy and nerve saving for mommy. I have no ideas on what fabric in my stash to use or what kind of pockets I’ll need. This will definitely be a winging it project. I’m NOT a wing it type of person so maybe not so nerve saving for mommy. I’ll give this one 50/50 also. I don’t think it will be difficult to execute, once I figure out fabric and a basic plan.

Project Four: Monster in the Pocket sweatshirt.

I’m thinking a basic long sleeve sweatshirt with a large zip pocket across the tummy. The pocket lining would be black with a couple friendly monster eyes peaking out.

UFO Knocked Out: The Standing Collar Jacket

100_3318All right, we sewers and creatives all have them, UFOs (unfinished objects). I have to admit though, that having this one in my stack was pretty ridiculous.100_3320

The standing collar jacket was a lot of work and time, about 30 pieces if I recall; and after putting in all that time and effort I stalled out on the buttons. Yes, five measly buttons shelved this jacket for over two years.100_3317

So now I’m on a kick to downsize my sewing stash and this jacket was on the chopping block. I was thinking I would not be interested in wearing it after two years, best just to finish it up and sell it off. Then when putting it on to test my button placement, I remembered how nicely this jacket fits and how soft the fabric feels and what do you know, I’ve a keeper after all.100_3319

 

Standing Collar Jacket

I originally chose this pattern for the cowl neck version of the jacket, but grew to want the standing collar version instead. The fabric is so soft but still has enough body for a jacket. Button are pending as the originals I bought don’t quite make the grade.

Successes: I made my own shoulder pads.

Lessons Learned: I need to not be afraid to use heavy stabilizer. I’ll have to spend extra time pressing the jacket to make up for this.

Linen cropped jacket

I started with a lovely sample of plaid linen. One of several samples I received from a friend. Due to the limited amount of the fabric, I decided on a simple cropped jacket .

The jacket pattern is a definate winner for me, though the directionality of the fabric in the finished piece (due the limited yardage) doesn’t sit quite right with me.