This shirt really was rollercoaster experience for me. At first site I was pretty crazy about this top. I mean come on; black and white, stripes, asymmetry, mod styling. In true fashion I had to think about it, wait for the pattern to go on sale, and find the perfect fabric. Still very excited about it.
Then, fabric ready and pattern printed, hesitation set in like no tomorrow. I was concerned this would be too long and the funky shaped pattern pieces did not lend themselves to getting a good measure of the finished product. I’m on the shorter side (5’4″) and really did not want a too long top, which could easily happen with this design. I also wanted this top to be more fitted so the gathers weren’t too droopy.
In true Burda fashion, pattern details like finished measurements and instructions are of little help or non-existent, so I would have to make guesses at getting a good fit. After a few days of hemming and hawing, I just dove in. Still unsure. Hoping I wasn’t wasting this great fabric.
Let me include that I downloaded the pattern, so I did not have the advantage of the better sewing instructions that are included in the January 2014 magazine.
I used my size, a 40, but did not add a seam allowance (they are not included in the pattern) I serged with a 3/8in seam allowance. Success number one, it’s fitted but not tight. I shortened the pattern by removing 2.5in from the bodice hem line and 3in from the sleeve length. Success number two is a length that is working for me. I tried to stripe match between the sleeve and bodice but used a point that ended up under the arm. I should have lined up the stripes at the top of the sleeve. Stripe matching was a bust but not really a big deal.
A few more details: I gathered the sides with a basting stitch, basted clear elastic tape on top of the gathers, then serged the side seams. I serged the sleeve seams then inserted them into the bodice. One sleeve connects with a gathered part of the bodice. I pinned the sleeve in, then gathered that part of the bodice to fit before serging in that sleeve.
I did a neckline insertion by sewing in an 18in neckband loop into the 21in opening. I hemmed the sleeves and bodice by folding up 1in secured with a stretch stitch.
I used a cotton/spandex jersey knit in Midnight Navy/Heathered Gray Stripe (no longer available) from Fabric Mart.
Burda 01/2014 #122 should take you less than 2 hours.
Fabric $13* Pattern $5 Total Cost: $18
*I include shipping in my calculations