When thinking about how to bring a summer feel to clothing that I can wear year round, I kept coming back to the idea of using fabrics with a summery print or colors for a fall/winter garment. The best I was coming up with was a floral lining in a jacket, but it just wasn’t what I was wanting to accomplish for Never Ending Summer.
Thanks to The Monthly Stitch’s August theme of “2 is the magic number” I got to thinking about making something reversible and viola the Reversible Pin Peg Mini idea was born. Summery on one side, wintry on the other.
Just a few details: I used an abstract stretch cotton sateen from Fabrics & Trimmings and a stretch cotton twill called Stingray from Felinus Fabrics (sold out). The Pin Peg Mini is a newer pattern release from Sew This Pattern. I paired fabrics with a similar stretch, weight and opacity.
I would resolutely insist that you make a muslin first. I’m glad I did because there was some weirdness with how the pattern printed. (I didn’t see anyone else report problems when researching, I’m sure I goofed it up) The size chart puts me at a size 10, but I sized up to a 12 on my first muslin and it was about 1in too narrow on the back and 3in too narrow at the front. Whhaa? I reprinted on some A4 paper I have, made sure there wasn’t something happening with the scaling, and got no difference in the pattern pieces. Unfortunately there are no finished garment measurements to help out either. I started my second muslin at size 16 and worked down from there. I ended up using size 12 for the back and size 14 pieces for the front and grading one size smaller at the waist. All this too say, measure your pattern pieces for fit and do a muslin.
Getting the right fit took a little work, but I’m really pleased with my reversible version. I was most excited about the black Stingray fabric, but I’m only meh about the finished look. I think a black zipper would not have distracted from the vertical print, so I’m considering painting over the metal on that side. I’m liking the watercolor side much more.
I haven’t thought through how I’m going to style it in the cooler months, but I feel good about my Never Ending Summer creation and I’m glad I can share how I made a reversible version.
A brief tutorial on how to make your Pin Peg Mini reversible:
Note: I’m just giving high level instructions so you can make your own. Good sewing practices like marking, trimming seams, and pressing are assumed. Also I’m assuming you know how to install a zipper.
- You will need the two front pattern pieces, back piece, two front waist band pieces and back waistband piece. (Set the facings and zipper flap pattern pieces aside)
- Determin your new zipper length. Abutt the left front and left front waist band pieces and measure along the zipper edge. Subtract 2.5in to account for seam allowances. Or wait until you’re to ready to insert the zipper and measure.
- Cut your fabrics separately. Cut main fabric right side up with pattern pieces right side up. Cut second fabric right side up and pattern pieces wrong side up.
- Sew all darts. Press the main fabric darts out, press the second fabric darts in.
- In main fabric, sew front 2 pieces to back piece at side seams. Repeat for second fabric.
- In main fabric, sew front waist band pieces to back waist band piece. Repeat for second fabric.
**Note that the right waistband piece includes extra length for a button closure, I just trimmed the extra off after attaching the waistband to the skirt.
- In main fabric, sew the waist band to skirt body. Repeat for second fabric.
- Right sides together, line up the main skirt with the second skirt along the waist and hemlines. Sew the two skirts together along the waist band. Press. Sew the hem line together leaving a 10in opening along the back piece. You should now have a tube, open at two ends and a 10in opening at the hemline on the back piece.
- Sew in your zipper along the shorter front piece. Turn things right side out if it helps, then line up the other side of the zipper in the opening on the long front piece. Sew the zipper in the other side and the bottom of the longer seam closed at the same time.
- Now you’ll need to turn things right side out through the 10in opening in the bottom hem and hand stitch the opening closed.